Incredible India, as the tourism campaign says, is a huge country with history, culture, food and so many tourist sights.
India is a country of contrasts: the national religion is Hindu, but it possesses the second biggest Muslim population in the world. In Bihar, people live on the breadline, yet Bangalore is at the cutting edge of technology and computer software.
The south is rich in lush mangroves and tropical beaches, and the north is dominated by the most dramatic mountain range in the world. Maybe we shouldn’t look at these as contrasts, but more a suggestion of the vastness of the country and culture you will be going to: India has something of everything.
India has only been independent for less than 100 years, yet carries a distinctive culture of its own. Think of India and you might think of poverty, a colonial past and the Taj Mahal. Of course these are all part of its culture, but India is richer than that.
When in India you’ll sense a strange conflict between the modern and ancient: the ancient shaped by Moghul rulers and Hinduism, one of the oldest religions in the world; and the modern shaped by such great characters as the mad Nizam of Hyderabad, Gandhi and Nehru.
Some constants remain, like the mind-blowing curries that have been cooked for centuries (and don’t expect anything similar to your British curryhouse experience here!); cricket, the national game that is played out on every spare dirt track in the country, and religious festivals which will amaze you for their frenzy.
Gandhi said that ‘the real India is to be found in the villages’ and when travelling here, you’ll get the real insight into all this. Whether you are looking for a backpacking adventure or dream holiday, view my tips and go explore this magical country for yourself.
Getting to India
India has world-class international airports with flights from all major destinations in the world.
There are frequent flights and searching and booking flights can be cheap compared to other destinations. You can either use travel agent or book it online with a website like Skyscanner which gives you the best deals on prices.
During peak travel times to India the flights fare can increase manifold its best to book you your flights well in advance. Do not worry about your time of arrival in India, consider an airport pick up especially if you are arriving from overseas for the first time.
When to Go
Considered to be more akin to a continent than a country due to its huge array of landscapes and climates, knowing what time to visit India is also a big factor to think about when planning a trip.
Generally speaking, the cooler months of October to April are the best times, when monsoon rains are a distant memory and the heat is less intense.
May and June sees the weather getting sometimes unbearably hot – which many people either love or hate.
While from July to September the monsoon rains blanket the land torrentially at least once a day. This is arguably the best time to travel in India as the weather is still hot, it’s still sporadically sunny, and the landscape blooms in verdant greens while the rain washes away much of the dust!
Accommodation
India is one of the best value countries in the world and you can find lots of cheap hotels in most locations. Find the best deals on hotels on Booking.com.
Itinerary and How Long to Visit For
No matter how long you are in India for, the chances are you will only see a small portion of the country. 4-8 weeks is a good amount of time to see some of the best locations. These are definitely some of the most popular places to add to your India travel itinerary: Delhi, Rishikesh, Kuari Pass Trek in the Himalayas, Agra, Taj Mahal, Jaipur, Jodhpur, Udaipur, Mumbai and Goa.
North vs South
India boasts some of the world’s greatest sights and experiences on the planet but understand this: India is intense. What else would you expect from the second most populated country on earth?!
Many travellers claim there is an acclimatisation process when first arriving in India. This can take anything from two weeks to four months and is due to the large population size, with an obvious ‘hustle’ factor prevalent in most cities.
Although many feel culture shock when they first arrive, persevere, because after a while you’ll seriously begin to enjoy yourself!
The North
Spreading from the Himalayas to the centre of the largest film industry in the world, Mumbai, the north incorporates much of the India that you’ll recognise from books. Fly into the capital Delhi and from this teeming metropolis visit the red walled city of Shahjahanabad and the charming Red Fort.
Make sure you try some milky-sweet Chai from one of the many street vendors. This original tea drink is sometimes brewed with lots of milk along with mixtures of cardamom, ginger, cloves, and copious amounts of sugar. It’s delicious!
Try out some spiritual moves in the yoga capital of the world, Rishikesh, and head further up into the hill station of Shimla. This stunningly beautiful hill station was a summer retreat for the British Raj, and looks more like Canterbury than India!
The YMCA and Hotel Dreamland are both brilliant budget options. Check out the royal palace in Leh and be mesmerised by Tibetan artifacts in the Library of Tibetan Works and Archives in McLeod Ganj. This picturesque mountain town is home to the Tibetan government in exile and the Dalai Lama. If you are very lucky you may get to see him in a public meeting!
Heading back through Delhi take the popular train ride to Agra, where the white marble Taj Mahal stands in all its glory. Then head south-west to the state of Rajasthan which combines romanticism with desert and stunning hill-top forts.
The South
The beautiful south is markedly more laid-back in places, so could be a better option for travellers not wanting to brave the more intense north! Starting off in Mumbai, take a walking tour past colonial relics like the Royal Bombay Yacht Club and sleep in the tourist friendly Colaba.
Chuckle at the British-style red double decker buses and brave the constantly busy Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus train station for a trip down south. Riding the Konkan Railway to Goa, pass through scenic tropical lands and chat with locals. Goa is where life moves to a slower pace. This ex-Portuguese colony boasts its own chorizo makers, and a stunning seafood cocktail of snacks.
Barter for jewellery in the Anjuna Flea Market, drink all night in Baga, and socialise in the silent parties of dreamy Palolem. Marvel at the UNESCO monuments of Hampi, and cruise the Keralan backwaters on a converted rice barge. Do some birdwatching in the Western Ghats mountain range, and take in the neon signs of upmarket Bengaluru. The list is endless!
How to Get Around
If traveling on a budget, then trains and buses are the way to go. For as backwards as the country is at times, I had very little issue getting around (save for one bus journey, story to come later).
Train
If taking trains, I have one and only one suggestion for you. Bypass buying tickets at the train station. Save the hassle of having to deal with Indian railway stations and just book online. It’s simple and easy, while train stations are just a hassle. Food is usually served (and it’s not half bad), and seats are comfortable. There are different classes and prices of trains, so do your homework. View more of my tips for travelling by train in India.
Bus
Buses are a little more complicated, but signs are in English and most everyone speaks English as well. I only took a few buses, and the conditions weren’t exactly what I’d call comfortable, but hey, this is India. I definitely preferred train travel.
Air
Obviously if you’re planning on seeing a lot of India or don’t have much time, look into airfares around the country. There are many sites that offer cheap flights to India as well.
Tour
I would really recommend booking a small group tour of India, especially if you are female, travelling alone, or just want to see the highlights without the hassle of having to organise everything. Browse small group tours with G Adventures or Contiki – both companies offer multiple trips and itineraries.
Best Places to Visit in India
Here are some things not to miss.
The Taj Mahal in Agra
The exquisite Taj Mahal was built between 1632 and 1648 by Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his favourite wife. A UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the new seven wonders of the world, the Taj Mahal is a jewel of India and one of the world’s most admired buildings. Sunrise is ultimately the best time to experience it in all its glory – watch as the dusky pink sky illuminates, turning the gorgeous white domes into a golden hue.
Jodhpur
Standing on one of the world’s most imposing fortresses and gazing down over the imperial city of Jodhpur, you’ll soon realise why it’s dubbed the “Blue City”. The melange of facades you observed while navigating the streets suddenly gels into one great blend of blue. Amazing.
The entrance gate to the Mehrangarh Fort is famed for the handprints of Raja Mansingh’s widows. They famously threw themselves on Mansingh’s funeral pyre rather than fall into the enemy’s hands.
Udaipur
Thanks to several stunning palaces, one of which seemingly floats on Pichola Lake, Udaipur is commonly known as the “Venice of the East” and it’s undoubtedly one of India’s most attractive and romantic cities.
Whether climbing the surrounding hills to take in the vistas, strolling through town or cruising on the lakes, you’ll enjoy your time here. For an adventurous preview, watch the James Bond classic Octopussy that was partly filmed here (in the Lake Palace Hotel).
Usually sunny, fringed by long, sandy beaches, and washed by the Indian Ocean, this small state’s reputation as an Indian getaway is well founded. Lie low and soak up the sun, join in the legendary raves or wade into the fascinating remnants of Portuguese colonialism. Hinduism still takes a back seat to Roman Catholicism in Goa and whitewashed churches are almost as abundant as coconut palm groves.
Ladakh
Explore the stunning beauty of Ladakh, visit the beautiful high-altitude lake of Tso Moriri on the camping trip of a life-time, and explore Hemis National Park, the home of the ghost of the mountains, the Himalayan Snow Leopard.
On a trek through the mountains, see if you can spot some Himayalan Ibexes, Blue Sheep, or the friendly marmots that live on the slopes. Nestled among the high Himalayas and the mighty peaks of the Karakoram, Ladakh’s spectacular landscapes are also only bested by the warmth of its people.
The rich history of this beautiful region comes alive as you explore aspects of Tibetan Buddhism and the old Silk Route, while the geopolitics of the modern world place this land of high passes in the zones of influence of India, China, and Pakistan.
Learn about how Ladakh is coping with the very real threats of climate change, how it is affecting the land and the people, and get an immersive experience in working in an area that is holding on to its traditional self-sufficiency while embracing modernity.
Kerala
Turn down the incessant background noise for which India is famous and wade into the peaceful backwaters of Kerala aboard a traditional rice-boat. Kerala’s lakes, canals and rivers spread across the country’s southwestern tip and provide a peek into an India that few visitors experience.
Besides palm trees, lush fields and colourful local villages lining the banks, you’ll witness ingenious cantilevered fishing nets hovering over the shallows. Once your ears have adjusted to the drop in decibels, you’ll delight in listening to everything from the punter’s bamboo pole gently breaking the water’s surface to children playing along the banks and distant rumbles of thunder.
Some tours include an overnight exploration of the backwaters aboard a rice-boat.
Khajuraho
Much like the Taj Mahal, the Chandela dynasty’s 10th- and 11th-century UNESCO World Heritage Site temples at Khajuraho reveal much of their majesty only on close observation. Yet, from a distance these multi-tiered temples are still outstanding examples of Indo-Aryan architecture, each rising gloriously skyward.
At sunrise and sunset they’re even more dramatic, glowing in the fading light. But when you step closer, it’s the remarkable bands of intricate carvings encircling each temple that takes your breath away.
These carvings depict countless scenes of Indian life a millennium ago, ranging from farmers and gods to warriors and Tantric sex (the Chandelas believed that gratification of the earthly desires was a step towards reaching ultimate liberation).
Pushkar – Camel Safari
Pushkar, a diminutive city huddled around the semicircular shores of its namesake lake, is one of India’s holiest locations. Bathing in Pushkar’s waters is reputed by Hindus to have similar powers to those of the river Ganges in Varanasi.
Each November the town erupts when thousands of camels are herded in from across Rajasthan to take part in the week-long Pushkar Camel Fair – it’s mayhem and a must-see if the timing is right. However, there are some camels here all year round, offering travellers the chance to camp under star-studded skies on a camel safari.
Ranthambore National Park
Have you not stopped dreaming about tigers in India since experiencing The Jungle Book? Here’s your chance to see the real thing. Few places in the world give you a better opportunity to see tigers in the wild than Ranthambore National Park. Nestled between the Aravali and Vindhya ranges and covering nearly 400sq km, the park is also home to jackals, sloth bears, leopards and mongooses.
Sasan Gir National Park
Another amazing activity to include on your itinerary is spotting some of the country’s majestic big cats. If you head up to southern Saurasthra in Gujarat, you can have an incredibly rare experience – seeing Asiatic lions roaming in the wild in Sasan Gir National Park. In fact, this is now the only place to view these creatures roaming free, so it really is a once in a lifetime opportunity.
Varanasi
Visiting Varanasi, which is set on the shore of the river Ganges and one of India’s most sacred cities, can only be described as a trial by ordeal. This massive two-footed leap into Hindu culture will see your senses immersed in everything from religious pageantry to Varanasi’s omnipresent funeral pyres (dying in Varanasi is considered a passport to nirvana in Hinduism).
During boat trips on the “Wildlife and Culture”, “Highlights of India” and “Splendours of India” tours, you’ll be able to slide along the shore and observe vibrantly clad pilgrims who’ve flocked here to bathe and wash away their sins in the Ganges’ holy waters. At night, you may also witness lighted candles dancing on the river’s surface, floating downstream on flower petals.
Madurai
Although relatively unknown outside India, the Meenakshi Temple complex in Madurai is one of the country’s most impressive. Its twelve towers, each laden with thousands of vibrant Hindu sculptures, climb out of the city and dominate the skyline. Devoted to the Hindu god Shiva, the area has been the site of religious rites since the 7th century.
Andaman Islands
Are you looking to get away from the crowds and experience the authentic natural beauty of Asia? Ok, so it’s not exactly the cheapest place to get to (you can fly via Chennai) but the Andaman islands are a totally unspoilt bounty paradise.
Closer to Thailand in geography and looks, but distinctly Indian in culture, making it completely unique. Take a boat to one of the smaller islands – laid back India (random wandering cows included) in a ‘paradise’ kind of setting. Not all parts are accessible, but the bits you can get to will leave you speechless.
Costs & Budget
Like with any country the size of India, costs vary from city to city and state to state. By and large, India is a cheap country for westerners to travel in. If you’re willing to rough it more than usual, it becomes even cheaper.
But even if you’re a couple, like us, who prefers private rooms with bathroom and air conditioning, you can easily get by on $15-30US/day for accommodations. Larger cities, especially Mumbai, are more expensive though. If you’re only looking for a bed, you can have one in most places in India for about $5 on the low end. You do get what you pay for though.
Transport is also pretty cheap. A 5 hour train ride can cost anywhere from $2-$15, depending on what class and what type of train you take. Buses are dirt cheap, costing only a few dollars for about a 5 hour journey.
As far as food, as long as you’re willing to eat Indian (which you should as it’s some of the best in the world), you can easily eat for $10/day, including a few meals in restaurants. If you’re brave enough to try to the street food, you can have meals for under $1.
While we had no stomach issues in India (remember, we were on the road for nearly a year at that point), we were definitely in the minority. Like with all street food, keep an eye out of large crowds and quick turnover. Those places are the safest.
All in all, if you’re a couple looking for decent, private rooms, eating out at restaurants for most meals, while taking 2nd class trains around, expect to spend about $60-70US/day while seeing pretty much every site you want to see.
Safety
Safety is not such a big issue as it is sometimes made out to be. That is not to say that India is like Scandinavian countries with very low crime rates. But if you follow certain guidelines, you should not have much problem.
• It is advisable to not carry a lot of cash with you and even if you are carrying cash do not display it publicly. This also holds true for expensive gadgets – phones and watches.
• Do not carry your wallet in your back pocket, especially in crowded places. It is also advisable to not keep your credit cards in your wallet if you do not plan to use them.
• Always keep your hotel room locked and carry the keys with you. Do not leave any valuables in the room unless hotel provides some safe lockers.
• Most Indian cities do not have much of a night life and hence late night outs should be avoided completely. Drunk driving and anti social behaviour are common in the night so avoid being on the streets late in the night.
• Cities like Delhi, Mumbai and Bangalore have a night life and have many bars, pubs and discos but it is advisable to stay away from these as there have been reported incidents of drink spiking.
Advice for Solo Female Travellers
Travelling as a solo female in India does have its difficulties; India is very conservative with regards to sexuality, and Western women are generally seen as the cultural opposite, which can unfortunately result in harassment, from comments onwards.
This isn’t something to get overly anxious about and definitely shouldn’t put you off visiting this incredible country, but it can lead to a less than comfortable travel experience. A major rule to follow is to always dress modestly; avoid showing too your legs and shoulders, which will prevents unwanted attention.
Another way to feel a bit safer as a female is by joining up with other travellers (consider groups with a male or two in), or by doing a tour. There are a number of tours that travel to locations throughout the country, and use local guides. All-in-all, if you’re a savvy traveller and aware of the culture then you’ll be fine.
India Travel Tips
Traveling to India can be very exciting, fun but also a little challenging. I have put together some useful information below to help you prepare yourself and plan your trip to India.
Insurance
You are all set to fly to India and suddenly next morning there is a problem and all flights get canceled. Or you land in India and there are flash floods. Unplanned and unforeseen events can occur at anytime and to make sure you are protected an overseas travel Insurance is highly recommended. Travel insurance us relatively cheap and a good investment to safeguard your travels from financial burden arising out of emergencies.
Health
You will need to get the following vaccinations: Typhoid, Polio, Tetanus, Hepatitis A and B, Meningococcal Meningitis (if you are planning to visit Nepal), Anti-Malarias (if visiting locations in a malaria zone).
Visa
You will need a tourist visa before you travel to India. Visa on arrival is not available. The duration of the tourist visa varies form country to country. For more details please consult your nearest Indian embassy.
Language
These are some of the best Hindi word and phrases to learn:
• Hello and goodbye: Namaste (pronounced “naam-a-stay”)
• Thank-you: Dhanyavaad (pronounced “don-ya-vaad”)
• Sorry: Mujhe Māf kījiyē (pronounced “moo-ji maave kee-tee”)
• Yes: Hā̃ (pronounced “haan”)
• No: Nahī̃ (pronounced “na-heen”)
How to cope with the poverty and begging?
Coming face to face with poverty in the form of beggars for the first time can be disconcerting and can evoke feeling of guilt. This prompts most people to hand over a lot of cash to the beggars. However, it may not be very helpful to the beggars as the giver may like to believe.
Begging in urban areas in India has, unfortunately, become an organized racket. Most beggars would prey on the sympathy of the giver to extract as much money as possible. This is not to say that they lead a comfortable life. They still live in very testing conditions.
The best way to deal with this is to expect it as a fact before you arrive in India so that it does not come as a shock and then deal with it objectively. If you do want to do something about it, the best would be to find a credible organization who works for rehabilitation of beggars and donate to them because then you know your money will be put to good use.
If you do not have the time to find out about an organization before you arrive, still do not give any cash. It does them more harm than good. You can buy food and distribute it, if you wish. Or just walk away but do not give cash for that will most likely be used for alcohol or drug abuse. To walk away is alright. You do not have to feel guilty about it.
Why do people stare at me?
It is just a cultural difference. Staring is not considered as offensive in India as the western countries or some other parts of the world.
Mostly, the stares are of curious nature than anything else. Just ignore them, that is the best way to deal with for even if you confront someone they will be at a loss to understand what went wrong.
However, women travellers can attract stares that may not be as innocuous as mentioned above. Again, ignoring them is the best way to deal with it and dressing up in native attire will also help in keeping these incidents to a minimum, as is explained below.
What should I wear?
What you wear depends entirely on the time of the year and place you are visiting. Men can pretty much wear what they usually wear – trousers, shirts, t-shirts, jeans, shorts, 3/4s. Women in India dress differently and because the Indian society is generally more conservative for women it is advisable for women to wear clothes which are non-revealing e.g. jeans and t-shirts or tops or salwar (loose trousers) and kameez (loose shirt), long skirts and tops are ok in all cities, towns and villages.
How do I communicate? Do people understand English?
English is commonly understood in most parts of India. This is a legacy of the British period and English being retained as the official language of India. English is also taught in most Indian schools as a second language.
The degree of fluency in English differs from region to region and from urban to rural areas, the urban areas being more fluent. If you know English you will be able to communicate in most parts of India, although you may need to be patient at times and have to repeat yourself to get your thoughts across as most people will not understand the accent. Speaking slowly can do wonders!
How to stay connected?
Mobile phones are a rage in India. It has around 600 million subscribers and growing. Intense competition in the mobile phone market has made call rates in India one of the cheapest in the world. Two mobile technologies are operational in India – GSM and CDMA.
So if you have an unlocked phone, it is quite likely that it will work in India. Even if your handset has technical issues in India, there are plenty of cheap handsets available. To stay connected, just buy a new pre-paid SIM card at the airport or at any mobile shop or ask locally. The good thing is that mobile connectivity is available even in seemingly remote areas.
What is India’s currency? And where can I exchange currencies?
India’s currency is Indian Rupees, abbreviated INR. Forex counters are located at the airport and all major banks in India exchange currency. Banks like the State Bank of India (SBI) are likely to offer better rates than other places so if you are not in a hurry, it may make sense to locate the nearest SBI counter for exchanging currency.
Tipping
While tipping culture here isn’t traditional, it’s expected of travellers.
Aim to tip up to 10 per cent on restaurant bills – more if the service was especially good, or the chicken tikka/hot momos especially delicious! If you’ve been charged a ‘service tax’ on your bill in India, remember that this isn’t a tip (this is a government-issued tax), but if you notice a ‘service charge’, this is an in-built tip.
No need to tip taxis or rickshaw drivers (although you can tell ‘em to keep the change), but 50 rupees per bag is a good amount for anyone helping you with your luggage.
Should I Travel to India?
India will test you, no matter how seasoned of a traveler you are. It will have you screaming for home at times, it will have you begging to stay at others.
Like China and the United States, India is a massive country. The difference between north and south and east and west is huge. It’s a country I’ll never forget.
History piled on top of more history. A culture that will punish all 5 senses at once (which is both good and bad). Food that is among the most incredible in the world. People who test your every bit of patience yet also prove how wonderful humanity is. A place of amazing sites, horrific poverty, and people everywhere.
Expect, CHAOS. I write this not to scare you, but to warn you. You MUST be realistic and honest with yourself about what you’re going to encounter in India. When I arrived, I had been on the road for months. I thought I was a seasoned traveller. I thought I was ready. I were wrong.
Again, I write this not to discourage you from traveling to this amazing country. While chaos is to be expected, there are so many things that make India wonderful. The Taj Mahal is a shrine like no other. The Indian Himalayas tower above the rest of Earth and provide natural beauty seen in few other places. The deserts of Rajasthan are a delight.
Then there’s the people. While you have no doubt heard and read about the in your face aspect of India (all of which is true), you may not have heard of how joyful, welcoming, generous, and warm the Indian people can be. Expect to be offered chai at every turn, whether it’s a storefront, a hotel, someone’s home, or even the bus station.
India is so many things in one: friendly, tiring, shocking, revealing, and unpredictable. Basically, it is a country that encompasses all the things that make a backpacking journey so great! India truly is a place like no other. Once you’ve been, you will never be the same.