There’s a reason Laos rhymes with wow. Where else would you find fancy French architecture, super-smiley orange-clad monks, crazy caves filled with hundred of Buddha statues, meandering rivers, delicious banana pancakes and really cheap beer?
Laos is like a little undiscovered jewel in South East Asia’s glittering crown; make tracks before it gets busier. It’s mystical, spiritual, friendly and beautiful all in one. Buddhist monks worship in ancient temples, little children play in the street when the rains come, and the whole country moves at a laidback pace.
And let’s not forget the heaving backpacker town of Vang Vieng where travellers get drunk on snake infused rice wine and swing from 50ft high ropes into the muddy waters below!
View my tips for planning the ultimate trip to the hidden gem of Asia – Laos!
Laos Facts
• Population: 6.5 million
• Capital City: Vientiane (750,000)
• People: Over 60 ethnic groups
• Language: Lao
• Currency: Kip (KN)
• Time Zone: GMT + 7 Hours
• International Dialing Code: +856
• Visa: US$30 – US$42 for a visa on arrival, 30 days validity
Reasons to Visit Laos
Beautiful landlocked Laos; a land of abundant natural wonder and arguably the most relaxed country on the planet. Many visitors have found that long suffering ailments like muscle aches, asthma and stress related illnesses have all been cured here, and when you visit you’ll understand why.
No one’s in a rush! If you order food in a restaurant here, don’t expect it to come on time, and definitely don’t expect a group order to come all at once! It’s the little things like this which make Laos all the more charming. And with stunning limestone karst geography, wide free-flowing rivers, the most bizarre party town imaginable and arguably one of the world’s most beautifully preserved colonial cities, it’s easy to see why so many backpackers rave about the country.
It’s laid back charms hit you almost straight away, where tuk tuk drivers sleep in hammocks inside their machines, street vendors fry sweet rotis at all hours of the day and market vendors sell colourful collections of silk goodies, silver jewellery and beautifully handcrafted ornaments.
While many hotels now cater to upmarket travellers, there’s still heaps of cheap digs. In low season it’s very easy to get a room for £4 on the banks of the Nam Khan river.
Although most of Laos has an 11 o’clock curfew meaning bars shut up shop on the dot, there is still a laid back nightlife in Luang Prubang. Utopia is a stunning bar perched over forest with high views of the Nam Khan. It serves local delicacies like buffalo skin alongside more mainstream dishes. There’s a volleyball court too!
Book a tuk tuk and head out to Kouang Si Waterfall, a collection of freezing cold aquamarine falls over smooth rock. The little village at the bottom is great for snacking on Laotian dumplings and refreshing sugar cane juice. After a few days in this magical town, you really won’t want to leave!
Laos is not all party towns and colonial wonders though. In the far north bordering China some of the best eco-trekking is springing up, while around the capital Vientiane ancient wonders and unusual monument parks stand surrounded by natural beauty. Laos really is one of the best backpacker destinations.
Getting to Laos
The two day slow boat from the Thai border is probably the most atmospheric and easily the most scenic way to enter Laos.
Cruising along the mighty Mekong River you’ll not pass a single technological settlement, but instead drift through pristine rainforest with bamboo houses dotted sporadically. After staying overnight in the hill town of Pakbeng you’ll arrive in Luang Prubang the next day.
Another option is to arrive by plane into Luang Prabang’s international airport. The airport mostly serves destinations in Asia, if you are arriving from non-Asian countries usually have a layover in a country like Singapore, South Korea, Thailand or Vietnam.
Best Places to Visit in Laos
These are some things you really shouldn’t miss on your Laos itinerary.
The Capital – Vientiane
With a population of around 700,000, sleepy and friendly Vientiane is a charming capital city right on the border with Thailand.
It’s a shame many travellers only stay here for a day or two because it has a lot to offer. Not only does it have atmospheric French colonial architecture; there’s a very breezy atmosphere to the city which can only be appreciated after a few days.
Like much of south-east Asia, the old and new are always blended. Sure there’s lots of French colonial buildings in Vientiane, but neon signs, hundreds of pylons and thousands of motorbikes give it a very modern, and very Asian feel.
The first thing you need to do is get yourself checked into one of the many cheap guesthouses. There’s plenty on offer, but our favourite by far is the Mixay Paradise Guesthouse – a recently opened high rise hotel with fantastically cheap and clean rooms. You even get free breakfast – a heart shaped egg on toast!
Then you must visit the national symbol of Laos – That Luang. This golden stupa can easily be reached by a fun tuk tuk ride out of the centre of town, and then you can walk among its medieval steps for an hour.
And you cannot – I repeat, cannot – miss out on Xieng Khuan. This huge park 25km from the capital houses a large number of stone Buddha statues, some bizarre, some scary and some beautiful!
Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang is a city that is already known to backpackers. However, it isn’t just the city that attracts those wandering off the beaten track.
Ok, you might not understand what all the fuss is about, it’s just a small city! But as soon as you walk into town it’ll click: row after row of beautifully preserved, yet crumbling, French colonial buildings. Complete with colourful awnings and wooden signs, this UNESCO listed city is a treat.
Kuang Si Falls
This mesmerizing three-tier waterfall spectacular that looks so smooth and clear; you would think it had been photoshopped. The water is crystal clear and will entice anyone to take a dip. It is also a great place to enjoy the natural beauty and spend a few quiet days with just the rush of the water and the local wildlife. The easiest way to get here is on a day trip from Luang Prabang.
Vang Vieng
Where to begin when talking about Vang Vieng? Let’s just say it’s mad and nothing like you’ll ever experience. Once a small town nestled among limestone karsts on the Nam Song River, over the past five years it’s changed into a heaving party town of epic proportions.
Completely geared for backpackers, everywhere you’ll see buckets of whisky and coke advertised for £2, little cafes serving western food and open air cinemas playing American comedies. It is easy to get away from this though if you want to, and there are some lovely little family restaurants serving local dishes like lok lak – a very spicy meat and rice dish originating in Cambodia.
Tons of backpacker digs line the streets of Vang Vieng and you can easily find a room for under £5. Q Bar and Bucket Bars are good for a drink or two after tubing.
What the town is famous for is tubing. For around £5 you get an inflatable inner tractor tyre and a taxi ride to the river. Then you get in the tyre and float down the river. Although that might sound odd enough, it gets even stranger. A small number of wooden, riverside bars throw out water bottles tied to rope.
You hold onto the bottle and young boys drag you in so you party for as long as you like! Try a few rice wine shots infused with wasp or scorpion, play drinking games, or swing 50ft up in the air from zip lines and ropes before splashing into the water below. Although it is a lot of fun, don’t drink too much as the wet season rivers can be quite strong. Lifejackets are available.
Sometimes when tubing is the main draw, it’s hard to forget you’re in one of the most stunning locations on earth. Huge limestone mountains rise up everywhere and the landscape is peppered with temples and rice paddies.
Rock climbing, kayaking and caving are all top options. But before you head off, make sure you visit the Organic Farm and take a tour of the tea plantations, vineyard and dairy farm.
The Plain of Jars
About 10 hours bus ride north of the capital is the picturesque town of Phonsavan.
Surrounded by green hills and meadows, the town is currently undergoing a tourist boom and is well worth visiting for its laid back charms. Many people are aware of the Vietnam/America War, but only a handful know that Laos is one of the heaviest bombed countries in the world due to its location.
The Secret War, fought because of America’s fear of communism in Laos, occurred at the same time as Vietnam. Signs of the war can still be seen with unexploded ordnance still surviving. But resourceful locals have been using old shell casings to build tools, fences and houses.
But the reason most people visit this central region is because of the Plain of Jars – a mysterious collection of more than 4,000 ancient jars over 160 sites. It is believed they were used as funerary urns.
The Mekong Islands
Way down south, right on the border with Cambodia is the fantastic Si Phan Don – the Four Thousand Islands. Here the mighty Mekong is at its widest and around 4000 tiny islands reside in the centre of the river.
Only three are inhabited, Don Det, Don Khon and Don Khong. So prepare to step back in time; electricity only sometimes work, children play in the muddy streets and locals bathe in the river. It is an incredible place for relaxing, and backpacker friendly Don Det has plenty of wooden bungalows right on the water’s edge. Nap in a hammock, drink in the Reggae Bar, or hire a mountain bike to explore neighbouring Don Khon.
This tiny island is one of the best places in the region to see the rare and beautiful Irawaddy Dolphin. On one side of Don Khon there’s a collection of wooden cafes that will take you across river into Cambodia to a centre dedicated to keeping the freshwater dolphins alive.
From here you can sip a beer and watch them jump and play in the distance. You might have to strain your eyes though! But if you ask nicely enough, you’re boat guide might take you into the centre, up close.
Laos Travel Tips
Do I need a Visa to Enter Laos?
Citizens of most countries can receive a 30-day tourist visa in advance from a Laotian embassy or consulate.
The cost typically ranges from US$50 to US$150. Alternatively, a tourist visa can be obtained upon arrival at the Luang Prabang airport. The cost is approximately US$35. If you are planning on staying in Laos for longer than your visa, you can find more information online.
Laos is a fascinating destination at any time of year. In the dry season it’s hot and sweltering, while in the rainy it’s muggy but ever-so green.
Food and Drink
Lao cuisine is unique and very tasty, and you can expect to eat well during your visit.
• Breakfast: It typically includes coffee, tea or juice with eggs, rice soup, baguette, jam or fruit. Depending on your work schedule, you eat breakfast alone or with other volunteers.
• Lunch/Dinner: Main meals typically includes a main dish featuring noodles, fish sauce, spring rolls or sticky rice with chicken, beef or fish.
I wrote a guide to the best places to eat in Luang Prabang which you might want to view.
How Safe is Laos?
Laos is a small country where people are kind and the atmosphere is peaceful and welcoming. There is very little crime and, Laos is very safe. With that said, as is the case for all international travellers, you must be alert.
You should be careful with petty crime and certain aspects of daily life. For example, I strongly suggest you never ride the motorbikes that many locals use in a way that, in my opinion, is very unsafe relative to Western standards.
Places to Visit Near Laos
A popular option is to cross into Vietnam, Thailand or Cambodia. View my tips for gettounf around this region:
• How to go to Chiang Rai from Luang Prabang
• How to get to Vang Vieng from Udon Thani
• How to get to Bangkok from Vientiane