Guatemala is the beating Mayan heart of Central America. Located a short hop over the border from Mexico and with charming colonial streets, jungles, ruins, culture, history and some mad volcanoes, this country is bursting at its seams. Are you ready to fall in love? You will!
Why Visit Guatemala?
With its colonial past, colourful markets, impressive ruins, noisy jungles, smoking volcanoes and more than half of its population from Maya’s origin, Guatemala is the natural and cultural reference of the area as well as the backpacker’s favourite. It is also really cheap, especially if you are coming from Panama, Costa Rica or Mexico.
On a trip you can discover more about the Maya World – temples, villages, markets, costumes, music & traditions. For adventure there are volcanoes to climb or for relaxation head to one of the most impressive lakes in the region.
Walking the scenic streets of colonial towns is perfect for Instagram photos, whilst study Spanish is really affordable. For nature, you will get to see and listen to colourful birds and howler monkeys. For real cultural integration you could participate in a fiesta or bargain for souvenirs at local markets.
Essential Travel Resources
These are my favourite companies to use when I travel.
• Search cheap flights with Skyscanner.
• Find the best deals on hotels on Booking.com.
Getting There & Away
By Air
Aurora Airport, located in Zona 13 of Guatemala City, would be a good entry point if most of the airlines did not arrive in the evening and if the capital was not so dangerous. When leaving, there is an US$25 airport tax. See airport for more details. The other international airport is in Santa Elena, Peten, convenient for Tikal.
By Land
Most backpackers arrive by land, either from Mexico (6 borders), Belize (1 border), Honduras (3 borders) or El Salvador (4 borders). In theory, with so many crossing points and efficient immigrations offices, there should not be any problem.
In practice, some crossing are known to be more efficient than others. Check locally for the latest. There should be a Q10 exit tax from Guatemala. Bear also in mind that currencies from other bordering countries are very difficult to change away from the border.
By Boat
Boat crossing is possible only from/to Belize nowadays, from Livingston or Puerto Barrios. This is a good option to avoid backtracking in Belize but there is unfortunately a US$10 exit tax for boat departure from Guatemala. The crossing at Bethel for Mexico also involves a river crossing, which could cost you either Q5 or Q150 ! Check Flores for more details…
Guatemala Tours
Worried about travelling solo? Or just want a hassle free experience to see the highlights in a short period of time? Browse small group adventure tours with G Adventures or Contiki. Several itineraries are available and prices are cheap compared to other countries in the region.
Top Places to Visit
Here are some of my favourite destinations in Guatemala which you need to add to your itinerary.
Antigua is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with charming cobble stone streets, active volcanoes, and enough charm to make you contemplate ripping up your return ticket home. This former capital was the political and economical center of Guatemala for over two hundred years before being decimated in 1773 by an earthquake. This is one of my favourite cities in the Americas and somewhere I really recommend going, it is so photogenic!
Tikal
Play Indiana Jones amidst the ancient archaeological jungle of Mayan ruins of Tikal, deep in the dense northern rainforests.
Tikal is the jewel of Guatemala and it could justify a trip in itself. This is the only place in the world that is both a UNESCO World Heritage site (since 1979) and a World Natural Reserve and it is indeed this combination that makes it such a unique experience.
Get in early, wander through it while it’s still empty and feel like you’re discovering it for the first time. These. ruins are among some of the best in the world, and there are still yet to be uncovered.
Some visitors come for the Maya ruins, others to watch the exotic birds flying over the canopy but all reckons that the place is magic!
Lake Atitlan
Chill on the ginormous Lake Atitlan, fringed by cute hippie villages, three volcanoes and the Sierra Madre mountains. This could just become your favourite backpacker spot in the Americas. There are lots of language schools here offering great value courses, perfect if you want to learn or improve your Spanish.
The towns of Panajachel and Chichicastenango are every tourist’s dream. As you approach the town of ‘Pana’ on the narrow winding road, you get your first view of Lago Atitlan and the three giant volcanoes that rise above its waters.
But it’s the locals going about their business, wearing traditional Mayan clothing, carrying baskets on their heads and setting up TVs on the side of the road during the World Cup, that make it worth visiting. The market of ‘Chichi’ is unbelievable.
You can buy anything from pigs, fresh flowers and toothpaste to a special Guatemalan bag, painting or table cloth, just to mention a few. You can lose yourself in the streets among all the colours, but usually your friends are easy to find as they tower above the local people.
The food section is also an array of colours and smells, some so overbearing that you have to walk away to resist the temptation! Filing through the small market streets with locals carrying their chickens by the legs and leading their pigs to market is something really special. I love the smells, sounds, colours and the overall feeling that you get here.
El Estor
Not everybody is stopping to this little village on its way to/from Peten but those who did usually consider it as one of their favourite place. The village itself is fairly charming, set between the lake and the mountains but it is the relaxed atmosphere and the natural attractions that strike the visitor’s memory : the hot waterfall and the canyon are beautiful ways to spend a day or two…
Todos Santos
At 2,470m, this isolated Mam village boosts alpine scenery and a unique culture that ranks high on any backpacker’s itinerary. Tourists are showing up for its Saturday colorful markets or its November 1 fiesta & horse racing but the colors, music, weaving, smoke sauna or alcohol can be enjoyed year-round. Beside the people, there are a number of good walks around, including to the highest mountain peak in Central America.
Lanquin
This tiny isolated village is above all famous for the nearby natural attraction of Semuc Champney, a series of delightful pools and waterfalls. With its wild river tubing, large cave full of bats and great new finca-guesthouse, it is however in the process of becoming a major relaxed-spot for backpackers.
El Pardon and Sipacate
Hit the coast! Guatemala’s surf is insane and the beaches are perfect. I recommend El Paredon and Sipacate.
Finca Ixobel
This working eco-farm is a real gem, with a vibe that will stay with you long after you have left. It has something for everyone, from private rooms to tree houses and camping.
You can find yourself a quiet place in a hammock by the swimming pond or partake in the many activities, like horse-riding, caving, nature walks and river-tubing.
One of the highlights is definitely the food: a selection of home-made delights, which makes you constantly think about your next meal–something you will hear people talking about further into your journey.
The staff – a mix of locals and foreign volunteers – make you feel like part of their big family, and the nightly bar experience is one to remember as you attempt your best salsa moves and enjoy a spectacular fire show.
Natural Highlights
Head to the mountainous scenery of the Central Highlands or swim in Semuc Champney, near Lanquin, a series of pools and waterfalls.
Climb any of the 33 volcanoes, although active Pacaya is a favourite or trek any of the 44 legally protected areas (an additional 60 natural reserves are in consideration).
Relaxing by the hot waterfall near El Estor is recommended whilst if you like coffee, be sure to visit a local plantation.
Guatemala Travel Tips
When to Go?
From the touristy point of view, Guatemala never completely dries up. The busiest time is December to Eastern and summer, when Spanish schools may increase their rates.
Santa Semana, the biggest cultural celebration in the country, is the only time however when reserving ahead may be necessary, especially in Antigua which receives half a million visitors and double its rates!
As a whole, Guatemala does not suffer from the high season cost increase of some of its more expensive neighbours and it can be cheaply visited year-round.
Weather
From the weather point of view, Guatemala is sometimes called “the land of the eternal spring” as most interesting places are located at an height between 1300 and 1800m and remains pleasantly cool, with an average temperature of 20C.
However, it can go as high as 37C in the low-lying areas (Peten in particular), where sticky weather is common, and be quite freezing and damp in the highlands. The rainy season (“winter”) last from May to Oct but the rain usually take place in the late afternoon only so there is no reason not to visit.
Peten’s most remote jungles areas will however be tricky & unpleasant to explore until January or February (but few people venture so far).
Visa?
Not necessary. 90 days on arrival for most westerners.
How long to Stay For?
There are a lot of things to see and experience so less than one/two weeks would be a pity. Four to six weeks would be better to have a good tour of the highlights and meet the people.
Money & Budget
Guatemala is one of the best value for money destinations on the continent and your money can go a long way.
When backpacking you can easily survive with US$8-10 a day, even without staying in dormitories! Accommodation is really cheap and so are Spanish courses, and eating out. You can spend a fraction of the money you would in countries like Mexico and Costa Rica.
Guesthouses are very reasonably priced (usually less than US$3 per person for a room without shower), a set dinner in a basic & local restaurant should cost around $1.5 and transportation by ‘chicken’ bus usually cost less than $0.5 per hour.
However, beer is among the most expensive in the area at around $1.5 for one litter or $1 for 33cl. Big bottle of waters (1.5L) are ridiculously expensive at $0.55 but cheaper alternatives fortunately exist (see travel tips) for as little as $0.13 per liter. Locally produced ice-creams are expensive while very-locally produced ones may not be safe.
Like in the other neighboring countries, imported goods are more expensive (or much more expensive) than at home and shopping in the supermarkets is a very frustrating experience as most goods are imported : you won’t save much there !
Food and Drink
Local food generally consists of rice, meat and vegetables. A local speciality to try on the coast is a seafood stew called ‘tapado’ which is made from fish, shrimp, shellfish and coconut milk spiced with coriander. It is usually served with plantain and sometime a grilled fish. You will love this dish if you are a fan of seafood.
Language
Learn to speak Spanish! Quite a few people come to Guatemala for this unique reason. As a backpacker here, you should also seriously consider spending one or two weeks to grasp the basics. This probably won’t save your life but it will make it much easier and enjoyable. It will also show respect to the local people.
Safety
Guatemala used to be one of the most dangerous countries in Central America, with a number of horrors stories (often heard but fortunately rarely experienced). Guatemala is now a relatively safe country to visit, but there is extreme poverty and issues with drug gangs to be aware of.
Here are my top recommendations:
• Take extra caution in Guatemala City but other tourist hotspots like Antigua and Lake Atitlan are very safe.
• Be respectful and keep a low profile – it is clearly a bad idea to look even remotely close to a rich tourist! It will attract pickpockets and hide some smiles away. Associated with any kind of arrogance, it could even trigger violence. Avoid therefore to walk with your iPhone in evidence and use it discretely.
• Ask for permission before taking photos of people. Rumours about westerners kidnapping children for adoption or organs traffic are still lively in some remote places. Best therefore to avoid any kind of suspicion. In most places however, kids will cheerfully ask you for a photo.
• Keep a smile on your face and greet all the people you meet – Guatemala people are very hospitable as a whole but it does not harm to initiate the friendliness. When confronted to a drunk people, be patient and compassionate. Remember that insulting anybody is insulting everybody!
• Ask the locals about the latest safety issues – seeing you walking into a dangerous direction, they may actually stop you and inform you of the situation. But it is always safer to ask beforehand.
• The combination of dusty roads plus speedy vehicles is also something to be on the lookout for.
Health
As a whole, Guatemala is a rather healthy country to visit and common sense is the only requirement.
Although I met a few backpackers who were drinking the local tap water, this is certainly not recommended in Guatemala! In the same idea, do not eat any raw or uncooked food, incl vegetables. The nice tacos sold by the side of the roads and full of fresh greeneries could send you to bed for a day or two.
The food in Guatemala is usually prepared for lunch. Dining in the smallest places, you may get re-heated (and therefore more problematic) food. Avoid in particular the mashed beans of such places. Whatever you do, it is likely that you experience some kind of bug within your first few weeks. This should not last long and reinforce your organism for the rest of the journey. In case of vomiting or diarrhoea, head to the drugstore and ask for Ancalmo’s “Suero Oral” (or equivalent). Pack rehydration sachets to dilute into water will bring your energy back into minutes !
With most of the country being above 1300m, mosquitoes and malaria are not widespread and prophylaxis can be avoided as long as you stay in the highlands. You will however need to start the treatment (usually Nivaquine) one or two weeks before going down : the North (Peten) and the East are exposed, especially during the rainy season inside the jungle. Avoiding the bites is always the best idea, at night but also during the day since outbreaks of dengue fewer have been reported (no specific treatment but not fatal).
Keeping a safe distance from the dogs or the bats is also a great idea since there are cases of rabies. The ten rabies shots necessary in case of bite are not a great way to enjoy your trip. Being up to date with your inoculations (polio, tetanus, typhoid, diphtheria) is of course essential and adding hepatitis A and B is recommended.
Start Planning a Trip to Guatemala
I really liked visiting Guatemala, the country came as a surprise to me as I didn’t really know what to expect. But venturing to Tikal, Antigua and Lake Atitlan made my trip special and I would highly recommend spending time visiting this country if you are planning an adventure to this region. View my Central America travel tips for more advice.