Often overlooked by travelers in favor of attraction-filled Mali and coastal Ghana, Burkina Faso remains largely undiscovered.
One encounter with a Burkinabè, as people from Burkina Faso are known, and you will realize why this is a huge tragedy. Some of the friendliest and most welcoming people in West Africa are here, along with one of the most dynamic cultures on the continent.
The largest African film festival is held every other year in the bustling capital city of Ouagadougou and there are numerous opportunities to experience a wide variety of music and dance. While not as well known with tourists, Burkina Faso does have several notable attractions including Lake Tengrela, Karfiguela Falls, and the Sindou Peaks.
While the cost of the visa is exceptionally high, travel within Burkina Faso is inexpensive and you don’t have to deal with any of the hassle that comes with visiting a touristed area. Take your time, interact with the people, and get to know the warm smiles and vibrant culture of Burkina.
View my essential tips for travelling in Burkina Faso, and explore this hidden gem for yourself.
Visa & Border Crossings
Burkina Faso grants a single entry three-month tourist visa that is unfortunately very expensive. As of now, it costs 94,000 CFA (approximately $175 USD). Visas may be obtained from a Burkina Faso consulate or embassy before traveling. You can also purchase a tourist visa on arrival at a land border or at the airport in Ouagadougou.
Keep in mind that many airlines will not let you fly without a visa already in your passport. Check with your airline to see if this is the case. Proof of a Yellow Fever vaccination is required to receive a visa.
Ghana – There are two border crossings, one at Po and one at Hamale. There are many private bus companies that run transport from Ouagadougou all the way down to Accra (with stops in Tamale in Kumasi on the Ghana side). Ghana’s STC bus company (government run) also operates bus three days a week between Ouagadougou and Accra.
Mali – There are border crossings at Benena and Mahou on the Mali side. Buses frequently travel between Bamako, Mali and Mopti, Mali to Bobo-Dioulasso and Ouagadougou in Burkina Faso. There is also no shortage of bush taxis that ply this route, but understand it is much more uncomfortable and dangerous ride this way.
Benin – The main border crossing is near the town of Tanguieta. This is the closest town to the border itself. For transportation across the border, you can either get a bus in Ouagadougou that will take you all the way to Cotonou, or you can get transportation from Fada N’Gourma on the Burkina side or in Natitingou on the Benin side. It is not always easy to find transportation in Tanguieta.
Togo – The border crossing between Togo and Burkina Faso is at the town of Senkase. Transport is easily arranged for Lome from Ouagadougou through various bus companies. If you do not want to take a direct trip, there are a number of minibuses and bush taxis that you can take to make stops along the way.
Niger – The Niger border crossing is at the town of Makalondi. There are buses that run between Ouagadougou and Niamey several times a week and this is the most popular option for travel between the two countries. Keep in mind that there have been security concerns in the border area with Niger as Al Qaeda of the Mahgreb has kidnapped several people in this area. Do your research ahead of time to find out what the situation is on the ground before using this border crossing
Attractions & Top Things to Do in Burkina Faso
As is the case with many countries in West Africa, there is not a traditional tourist trail in Burkina Faso, but there are few places that are more well traveled than others.
Ouagadougou
Clearly in the running for coolest capital name in the world, Ouagadougou, or Ouaga (pronounced Waga) as it is affectionately known, is one of the hippest cities in West Africa. FESPACO, the renowned pan-African film festival, takes place here every other year in a celebration that attracts filmmakers, artists and musicians from all over Africa and the world.
Burkinabes are well known to support the arts as theatre companies and dance troupes are also well represented in Ouaga. There is a vibrant nightlife here with roadside bars and food stands running late into the night. Pull up a chair and start to understand true Burkinabè hospitality.
Bobo-Dioulasso
Bobo-Dioulasso, commonly referred to as Bobo, is the second largest city of Burkina Faso. Widely considered the commercial capital of Burkina Faso, the markets are always busy and the prices are generally cheaper than they are elsewhere in the country.
A vibrant street life, perhaps more so than in Ouaga, typifies Bobo and don’t be surprised when you are invited to sit and drink tea with some Burkinabès! Bobo is also considered a cultural center and many of the most renowned Burkinabe musicians begin their careers here. Don’t forget to try the fried caterpillars if you are in town during June and July!
Off the Beaten Path
Banfora
Banfora is a city lying 85 km southwest of Bobo. Banfora has a vibrant and colorful market and it is a good jumping off point for visiting sights in the Southwest of Burkina Faso. It is also the best place to sample Banji (a sort of palm wine). Banji is made from fermented palm sap and has varying amounts of alcohol depending on the length of fermentation. In Banfora, numerous vendors can be found in the markets and along the roadside. Make sure to try some before you leave!
Lake Tengrela, Karfiguela Falls, and the Sindou Peaks
Close to Banfora, these three sights are all easily accessed. Lake Tengrela is a small lake that provides one of the best places in all of West Africa to see hippopotamuses up close. You can hire a guide for several dollars who will take you across the lake to view these animals from a safe distance.
Karfiguela Falls are not record breaking in terms of their size or volume, but the cascading chutes provide a pleasant place to view the surrounding area and the waters are safe for swimming! Finally, the Sindou Peaks provide an abrupt change of landscape. Huge rock outcroppings shoot up from the Sahelian plains. Considered locally sacred, the Sindou Peaks are not to be missed.
Weather & Best Time to Visit
Like many countries in West Africa, Burkina Faso has a wet and a dry season. The wet season runs from June to September. During this time the humidity is significantly higher and it is difficult to travel on many of the roads, especially in rural areas.
From October to Mid-February, the weather is cooler and dry. Keep in mind, however, that the harmattan (winds from the Sahara) casts much of Burkina Faso in a haze during January and February. Do not travel during this time if you have asthma or respiratory problems. Also, understand that this season generally makes it difficult to take clear photographs.
The hottest and most uncomfortable time of the year is from March through May and temperatures can regularly reach 100 degrees (Fahrenheit, 37 degrees Celsius) and higher.
Money & Costs
Burkina Faso, like the other Francophone countries in West Africa, uses the CFA franc, which is pegged to the euro at a rate of 500 CFA to 1 Euro. Compared to some of its neighbors (Cote D’Ivoire and Mali for example), Burkina Faso is significantly cheaper. You can eat a filling meal with a drink for a $3-5 and comfortable accommodation can be found for $20 a night.
ATMs are accessible in urban areas, namely Ouaga and Bobo. If you are traveling outside of these two cities, make sure you bring adequate cash with you. Visa card, as is the case with many countries in West Africa, is your best bet for withdrawing money.
People & Culture
Burkinabès are famous for their hospitality. This will be readily apparent as you travel across the country and experience people sharing their food and their homes. Invitations to sit and down have tea are so common you will be surprised when you don’t hear them. Burkinabès also simply know how to have fun. Not as conservative as Mali or Niger, Burkina Faso has a relatively open culture. Roadside drinking, for instance, is an activity enjoyed by more than just expats.
Accommodation
For a simple and comfortable private room you can expect to pay around $20 a night. The prices go up quickly, however, as you add amenities. Generally, you can reduce the price significantly by taking a room that does not have a private bathroom or by taking one that does not have air conditioning.
In Ouagadougou and Bobo, there are more options for accommodation, including some that are upscale and luxurious. In smaller towns, expect a simple room with a bed, a mosquito net, and possibly a fan.
While there are not a large number of hostels in Burkina Faso, there is a fairly active Couchsurfing community. If you are unfamiliar with Couchsurfing, it is a website that allows you to find locals willing to provide you accommodation at their homes free of charge. Besides the obvious benefit that you don’t have to pay for accommodation, it also allows you to forge new friendships and to get an inside look at local culture.
Communication
Language
French is the official language of Burkina Faso, and it is widely spoken in urban areas and even in many villages. The Mòoré language, widely spoken by the Mossi ethnic group, is also widely spoken along with Dioula. Both Mòoré and Dioula can also be heard in Northern Cote D’Ivoire and in Mali.
Phones
There are several cell phone networks in Burkina Faso. Telmob (Onatel), Telecel and Celtel (Zain) are a few of the biggest. Almost everyone has a phone and local calls are very cheap. Sim cards will cost you no more than $3, so travel with an unlocked phone or expect to pay $15-20 for a cheap phone when you arrive.
Internet
Internet service in Burkina Faso is very slow and unreliable, but there are cafes with internet places like Ouaga and Bobo.
Food & Drink
Burkinabè cuisine is similar to that of other countries in Francophone West Africa. There are several doughy, starchy staples (Tô, made with millet, and Fufu, made with cassava and plaintain, are two of the most common) that are served with different sauces and stews.
Riz gras, which is rice cooked with onions and tomatoes, is a popular dish and it is often served with chicken or mutton. One of the most popular dishes in Burkina is brochettes of meat, which are typically served on the roadside. Beef is exceptionally tasty in Burkina Faso. Many people cite the long distances that herders walk with their cattle as the reason why.
Depending on the time of year, different fruits and vegetables are in season, and in the months of June and July, caterpillars, a delicacy in Burkina Faso, are fried and sold from roadside vendors.
There are several beers served in Burkina Faso. Flag and Castel are the most notable. Both are easy to drink and you can buy a big bottle for a little over $1. Banji is a type of palm wine that is made from fermented palm sap. It can be found throughout Burkina Faso, but it is most widely produced in Banfora. Bissap is a popular non-alcoholic drink. It is made from Roselle flours and has a sweet and sour taste.
Health
Malaria is widespread in Burkina Faso, and you should purchase anti-malarial prophylactics before traveling. P. Falciparum, the most lethal strain of malaria, is present in Burkina Faso. I have come down with Malaria twice before (the prophylactics are not 100% foolproof, but they probably made the symptoms less severe) and both times I treated it with Coartem, a medication that can be used for stand-by emergency malaria treatment.
Consult a travel health clinic before going to get necessary immunizations and recommendations for anti-malarials. A Yellow Fever vaccine is required to get into the country and I would also recommend a Typhoid vaccine. Coartem, and anti-malarials like malarone and doxycycline can be purchased cheaply at any local pharmacy in Burkina Faso. 30 Doxycycline tabs will run you about 2,000 CFA ($4 USD) and a box of Coartem should cost around 4,000 CFA ($8 USD).
You can take all the precautions you want, but you most likely still come down with some form of traveler’s diarrhea. I’m not telling you this to give you license to eat and drink freely – make sure food is fully cooked, peel or wash fruits and vegetables, and do not drink the tap water. I’m just telling you that despite careful eating, you will still have a few, maybe many, bad experiences sitting on a toilet or squatting over a hole in the ground.
To treat traveler’s diarrhea, take rehydration salts (can be purchased for less than a dollar at any pharmacy in Burkina Faso) with water. Imodium and Pepto-Bismol only treat symptoms and in the case of Imodium, they will do more harm than good (it slows down your gut, keeping the bacteria in longer). If diarrhea lasts longer than a few days, take ciprofloxacin, the atomic bomb of antiobiotics, which you can purchase at any pharmacy.
Safety
Violent crime is unheard of in Burkina Faso and even instances of petty theft are few and far between. The biggest threat to your safety is on the roadways. To increase your chances of staying safe on the road, avoid travel at night and try to take buses whenever possible. Bush taxis will of course provide a cheaper option, but the vehicles are almost always in a state of disrepair and they are consistently overloaded with people and cargo.
Cinema
Burkina Faso is well known for its film industry. Spanning several decades, filmmaking in Burkina Faso is an elevated art that is celebrated every other year at FESPACO, the pan-African film festival. There are over 25 production companies in the country and their output is truly astonishing – Burkina Faso has one of the smaller populations in Africa yet its film production is close to the top of the list. Gaston Kaboré and Idrissa Ouedraogo are two of the country’s more well known directors and you will probably be able to see one of their movies at one of the theaters in Ouaga.
Read & Watch
Any movie directed by Idrissa Ouedraogo or Gaston Kaboré – Gaston Kaboré and Idrissa Ouedraogo are two of Burkina’s most well known filmmakers and they have both made names for themselves on the international stage. I highly recommend Yaaba from Idrissa and Buud Yam (this movie, which won the grand prize at FESPACO, is still considered the most popular film in Burkina Faso) from Gaston.
Hopefully my guide for Burkina Faso has given you ideas and inspiration for visiting Burkina Faso. If you do go, let me know!