The only African country that has successfully resisted colonization through the ages, Ethiopia could very well be one of the most fascinating and unique travel destinations in the world.
This country is comprised of dozens of tribes and languages, and boasts dramatic landscapes, delicious cuisine and even an exciting capital, Addis Ababa, that could almost be described as cosmopolitan.
Outside of the capital, however, Ethiopia is quite rarely tackled by backpackers, especially compared to more touristy neighbours such as Kenya and Uganda. But the slow and steady construction of paved highways and increased travel infrastructure will likely attract more and more foreigners.
So if what you seek is the path less traveled by, you best hurry! View my top tips for backpacking or independently travelling in Ethiopia and plan your trip today.
Visa & Border Crossings
A three-month single-entry tourist visa (they don´t usually give multiple entry visas except to business travelers) costs around US$50 and requires two passport photos. I´ve heard that the government is increasingly wary of the ruckus stirred up by foreign volunteers, so if you plan to be doing a bit of charity work, maybe keep that to yourself.
Another visa option is to get a one-month visa on arrival at the airport, which costs around US$20, requires two passport photos and can take a while. You can renew it later if need be but this can be a long, irritating process so best to arrive prepared if you´re going to be spending more than a month in the country.
It is also very important to note that visas are NEVER issued on arrival at land borders, so don’t even try.
Djibouti – There are daily buses from Djibouti City to Dire Dawa, passing through the border post at Dewele.
Sudan – Metema is the most popular border crossing, and a good portal to get to Gonder.
Somaliland – Taxis or shared cars frequently travel between Hargeisa and the border post at Wajaale. Cross the border on foot and take a series of buses to get to where you need to go. Harar is a good destination fairly close to the border, but requires changing buses a couple times.
Kenya – The road from border post Moyale up into Ethiopia is paved and pretty straightforward, but getting to Moyale on the Kenyan side will be a bone-jarring adventure. Northern Kenya has a reputation for hosting some of the worst roads in Africa and has on-and-off banditry issues. Check security before planning your trip.
Somalia – No land borders are currently open with Somalia.
Eritrea – No land borders are currently open with Eritrea.
Tourist Attractions & Top Things to Do
Ethiopia is a vast country with many fascinating and contrasting travel opportunities, but beware: traveling on a tight schedule is somewhat impossible, especially if you are using public transportation. Instead of trying to pack in too much, best to leave ample time to explore one part of the country – otherwise, you may end up spending half your time on buses and come away disappointed.
Also, note that if you are traveling to different quadrants of the country, you will probably have to double back through Addis, as most long-distance bus route originate there.
Addis Ababa
Hosting oodles of foreign NGOs, Addis has a significant expat scene and thus a surprisingly diverse menu of galleries, restaurants and nightlife, all interspersed with the local scene of markets, parks and the omnipresent coffee shops. Although you´ll be inundated with fumes belched out by the aging cars and matatus (minibuses), the city is fun and safe to walk around – but mind your pockets!
Northern Circuit
Also nicknamed the “historical circuit”, the Northern region of Ethiopia offers up some incredible historical structures as well as gorgeous scenery. Bahir Dar, on Lake Tana, is home to beautifully-painted 16th-century monasteries dispersed over many small islands, and diverse bird life. Gonder is home to a magical assortment of ancient castles and stone structures, and is also the gateway to the Simien Mountains, a national park with magnificent hiking trails.
The circuit continues north to Axum, famous for its religious significance and the architectural feat of the giant obelisks, the oldest of which dates back to 5000 BC! Looping back southward, the jewel of the northern circuit is Lalibela. Home to dozens of gorgeous rock-hewn churches, Lalibela is best visited during a holiday or saint´s day for a whole-nine-yards experience – although accommodation and flights will be busy so book ahead.
East
Going East generally means going to Harar, which is pretty darn close to time travel. At the heart of Harar, the 1-sq-km old walled city is a medieval maze; be prepared to get wonderfully lost in the hundreds of tiny alleyways. Hararis are a colourful mix of a number of different tribes, with a definite Somali Muslim influence, so dress conservatively. Harar is not too far from the Somaliland border, which makes for an interesting detour if you have the time and sense of adventure!
South
Traveling Southern Ethiopia is a phenomenal opportunity to witness a wide array of different cultures in a very small geographical area, namely, the Omo Valley. Although ten years ago most residents had likely never seen a white person, “cultural tours” are now increasing in popularity. Wonderful weekly markets and fascinating rituals such as the coming-of-age Jumping of the Bulls Ceremony of the Hamer tribe, and the lip plates worn by the Mursi people, are just some of the region´s highlights.
Off the Tourist Trail
Well, that´s easy: Any parts of the country NOT listed above! The Wild West of Ethiopia sees very few travelers due to poor roads, abundant mosquitos and no major cities or particular attractions. If you have the time to travel here, you will likely find you make friends very easily, and be invited to people´s homes as a welcomed guest.
Any small village in the whole country is pretty well off the beaten track, but the most off-the-trail you can get also happens to be the hottest place on Earth! The Danakil Depression averages a temperature of 45 degrees celsius, requires a hefty 4WD and a big dose of courage. The inhospitable terrain will make you wonder if perhaps you have accidentally driven to Mars, and being the only traveler is all but guaranteed, so good planning and an expert guide are imperative.
Weather & Best Time to Visit
Ethiopia is pleasantly temperate, generally ranging between 20-30 degrees celsius. The rainy season hits June to September. Mountain areas get chilly at night so Simien Mountains hikers should come prepared with warm clothing.
Money & Costs
Other than all-inclusive tour packages and luxurious stays at the Sheraton in Addis, you might find it a difficult task to spend lots of money in Ethiopia. At the time of writing, the Ethiopian birr is worth about US$0.06, so about 16 birr to the US dollar. Expect to pay 5 birr for a macchiato in Addis (or as little as 2 birr in the country), 15 birr for a shiro, or about 3 birr for a matatu ride within Addis.
These quotes are assuming that you can get the local’s price! The ubiquitous doubling or tripling of prices for “faranjis” (foreigners) is annoying, and applies to most everything from toilet paper to taxi fares. If you know you´re being swindled, smile and offer the correct amount. Agreeing on the price before accepting any goods or food is a good habit. Even with occasional faranji pricing, you probably won´t break the bank.
People
Locals
Ethiopia is home to several dozen tribes with distinct languages, customs and dress. This variety is one of the country´s great draws. About two-thirds of residents are Orthodox Christian and one-third are Muslim.
Tourism is still quite a new phenomenon for most Ethiopian people and unfortunately, some (especially Southerners) look at Westerners and see walking, talking, dollar signs. This can be unpleasant but the onus is on the traveler to mitigate this by being knowledgeable about the culture.
Ethiopians are fiercely proud of their country´s unique independence and language, and you would be wise to learn a bit of Amharic or even better, a few words of the local language (see more below) to gain respect and authentic friendship. Ethiopians, like most North Africans, are incredibly hospitable, and tend to take particularly good care of female and/or lone backpackers.
In my experience though, travelers who visit Ethiopia fall into one of two categories: those who love it (because of the people), or those who hate it (because of the people). Your flexibility and sense of humour will determine where you land. Children will approach you en masse asking for money, candy and water bottles. Try not to have a panic attack.
Travellers
Not too many independent travelers tackle Ethiopia yet, but the infrastructure is pretty much there, if you´re not on a strict timeline. Organized tours of the Omo Valley are getting more popular, as well as in hotspots such as Lalibela and Gonder. This latter option generally draws well-to-do older European couples who, sadly, rarely exit their air-conditioned vehicles. Not that I´m being judgmental.
Accommodation
Hostels don´t exist in Ethiopia but you should have little trouble finding inexpensive hotels with shared bathrooms if you´re on a tight budget. The cheapest room will generally go for about 30-40 birr, and will probably be a brothel, and pretty filthy. Don´t say I didn´t warn you – it is a real possibility that a rat will eat your underwear. Bring flea powder for the mattress. For 60-100 birr, you can often find a half-decent double room. And for 150-200 birr, it won’t be the Ritz but it will probably have a private bathroom and if you´re really lucky, a Western-style sit-down toilet.
Communication
Language
Amharic is the primary language spoken in Ethiopia, and all but the most remote villagers speak at least the basics. In the touristy places in Addis you’ll find some English speakers, but don´t count on it elsewhere. Learning Amharic greetings is essential, then learn numbers. The more you speak, the more opportunities will arise for you! There are over seventy languages spoken in Ethiopia and if you´re going to be in one region for a few days or more, take the time to learn at minimum “hello” and “thank you”; the locals will be surprised and appreciative!
Phone & Internet
Communication with the outside world is notoriously frustrating in Ethiopia, with tragically slow internet and touchy phone connections. There are cafes with Wifi aplenty in major towns, but bring a book and a snack – yes, it is that slow. Best to let your loved ones know you´ll be out of touch and leave your electronics at home. And forget about wifi – other than a couple places in Addis, it is available nowhere else in the country.
Food & Drink
Ethiopian food is like no other: dollops of deliciously spiced stews served atop a massive stretchy sourdough crepe, morsels of which are used to sop up and eat the various dishes. The crepe is traditionally made solely from teff, a grain that grows only in Ethiopia. Gluten-free and high in fiber and iron, it’s delicious but has a strong, somewhat sour taste, so give yourself a few chances to get used to it.
Eating is a communal affair; one plate is served for the whole table. Don’t be surprised if you are invited to join strangers if you enter a restaurant alone! It’s polite to have at least a bite or two. It is custom to hand-feed three mouthfuls to an honoured guest – this is called gursha. It´s a little awkward and you´ll probably lose some to your lap, but it´s very insulting to refuse, so roll with it.
Eat only with your right hand at all times. (The left is considered only suitable for bathroom business.) Veggies and vegans are in luck every Wednesday, Friday and Christian holy days, when only ‘fasting food’ is available. This means no animal products, except sometimes fish. Bayaynetu reigns supreme on these days: an assortment of delicious lentil and vegetable stews.
If you’re playing it safe, follow the traveler’s rule: peel it, boil it, or forget it. Shiro is always served piping hot, other dishes sometimes room temperature. If you’re feeling adventurous though, give kitfo a shot: spiced raw beef. Tibs is greasy goat or cow meat cooked with peppers and onions. Spaghetti, rice and various incarnations of eggs are widely available.
Ethiopian coffee is tremendous; afterall, you are in the very birthplace of the famous bean! Typically served as a macchiato, with a dollop of steamed milk, the coffee is simply unmissable, even if you´re not normally a java drinker. Tej, honey wine, is another must-try and best consumed liberally in a grungy raucous tej house in a small village – that’s where the party really happens.
Ambo is a naturally carbonated sparkling water bottled just west of Addis. Soft drinks, beer and still water are cheap and plentiful, but in small villages, finding a cold one can be tricky. Fresh, thick fruit juices are delicious but a bit risky if you’re concerned about water-borne illness. Tap water is not potable.
Chat, a mildly stimulating leaf, is chewed by everyone and their grandma in the East, and to a lesser extent in other parts of the country. You’ll see people coveting great bunches of it and spending hours a day generating a big pasty glob of it stuffed in their cheek. Give it a try at least once – locals will get a big kick out of it – and devote at least a couple hours to the ritual to feel an effect. Note that chat is illegal in Djibouti and Kenya so don’t cross the border with it.
Health
Chances are you’ll suffer from at least one bout of traveler’s diarrhea, even if you´re cautious. A malaria prophylaxis is recommendable, especially after rainy seasons. Get the usual vaccinations, plus up-to-date rabies shots; wild dogs and cats rule the streets and they aren’t too healthy-looking. Ask a travel clinic about specific precautions before your trip.
In small towns, first aid supplies are hard to come by, and pharmacies often sell fake drugs so stock up on everything at home. Tampons and pads are difficult to find, and always carry your own supply of toilet paper. Hand sanitizer from home can be your best friend when soap is elusive and you’re about to dig into your injera with your grubby hands.
Safety
Violent crime is thankfully quite rare in Ethiopia but petty crime is rampant in Addis, particularly in buses, touristy areas and markets. Never leave anything unattended, even for a moment. If you have anything stealable in Merkato, it WILL get stolen. Trust me on this. I know it hurts, but leave that fancy Macbook at home, and keep your daypack on your front even though it looks dorky.
Scams are also extremely frequent, often in the form of an invitation to a coffee ceremony that ends in being presented with an exorbitant invoice. Requests for university sponsorship are popular. Self-appointed guides will expect payment so be clear about your expectations from the start.
Solo Women
Lone female travelers will attract lots of friends, most of them harmless, if not a little on the annoyingly persistent side. I would recommend that you are ALWAYS on your way to meet your husband! Expect some marriage proposals regardless.
Showing your arms is no biggie (except in the East where the population is mostly Muslim) but wear shorts/skirts at least to your knees, as showing your upper leg area is considered quite provocative. When in doubt, be conservative, for your own comfort and others’.
Extreme homophobia is standard, even among the younger, more progressive folk, so gay couples, be extraordinarily discreet. Ethiopian men are very physically affectionate with each other (holding hands, etcetera) but don’t confuse this for a come-on.
Music & Dance
For as many tribes as there are in Ethiopia, there are just as many accompanying styles of music and dance; you would be remiss not check out some performances. There are many bars and restaurants in larger towns that offer nightly live music and dance.
Ask at your hotel for some recommendations. Many of these venues welcome guests – even faranjis – to get on their feet and give it a go. You’ll notice that Ethiopian pop music is very popular, and blasted loudly everywhere. It’s a bit of an acquired taste but I bet you´ll find yourself humming along in no time.
Volunteering & Good Causes
Addis is packed with NGO headquarters so a volunteer position will likely land you there. Popular themes include education initiatives, and programs to assist women finding international markets for their goods, such as coffee, textiles and handicrafts. There is also a need throughout the country for help at orphanages.
Read & Watch
Guidebooks – Lonely Planet and Bradt Guide
Greater Ethiopia: The Evolution of a Multiethnic Society – Donald N. Levin