A country which will draw gasps when you tell people about your recent backpacking trip here, Somaliland truly is a world apart. The gasp is often fuelled by a common misconception but Somaliland is not Somalia, not by a long shot.
Somaliland is a self-declared republic, unofficially separate from it’s war-torn brother, Somalia. It has it’s own flag, currency, Government yet the Western powers refuse to recognize it as an independent country. This is a little known fact and one which the Somalilanders will be very happy to inform you about over some qat (a local leaf grown in the highlands said to have the same effect, when chewed for a few hours, as a slightly different type of leaf smoked in the west) and chai.
Located in the horn of Africa, across the Gulf of Aden from Yemen and bordering Somalia to the south and Ethiopia and Djibouti to the east Somailand is one place where you’re sure to feel off that well beaten tourist trail.
Generally very safe and with a Government which is ultra safety conscious, there’s no need to fear for your safety while wandering the dusty streets of Hargeisa, Somaliland’s capital. This fact may sound contradictory to the fact that armed guards are compulsory for any visit outside the capital but rest assured this is merely an over zealous safety precaution as opposed to any necessary protection!
Somaliland is a strict Islamic state so bear that in mind when you’re choosing your outfit for the day. Ladies, cover those shoulders and legs – consider wearing a headscarf, it will make you life a lot easier.
Gentlemen, no shorts I’m afraid (despite the heat!) especially on a Friday, the Islamic ‘sabbath’.
Visa & Border Crossings
There are no VOA (visas on arrival) in Somaliland regardless of how you enter so you have to get your visa in advance.
The only ‘embassies’ in existence are in London, Addis Ababa and recently in Washington DC. As both an Irish and British passport holder the process I went through in Addis was very straight forward – 2 passport photos, $30 USD and a photocopy of your passport and you’ll have your visa within the hour.
Somaliland shares its borders with Djibouti, Ethiopia and Somalia (proper).
Land:
Togochalela, Ethiopia – Wajaale, Somaliland:
Loyada, Djibouti: No real town as such. You get a 4WD from Hargeisa (or Djibouti City if you’re coming from Djibouti).
Boat:
Berbera, Somaliland. Possible to arrive from the middle-east and the port can stamp you in IF you have you already have the visa.
Air:
Hargeisa, Somaliland. International airport with flights to Ethiopia, the Middle East and Djibouti.
Presumably you’ll be coming from Ethiopia so, after getting stamped into Somaliland try to jump in a car with someone who is going to Hargeisa, the capital (most people are heading that way).
Otherwise, you’ll be waiting for an overpriced 4WD to take you to Hargeisa and you may be asked to pay for an armed guard, although this is avoidable if you smile a lot and hope for the best!
Tourist Attractions & Top Things to Do
I will never be able to say this with more conviction than here – there is NO tourist trail in Somaliland. In fact, the odds of you being the only traveler in the country at any given time are strongly in your favour. There a series of western NGOs who blaze the humanitarian trail across the horn of Africa but even their presence is low-key and the chances of you seeing another non-local are slim-to-none.
Hargeisa
The capital of Somaliland and its cultural hub. The city itself offers little in the way of ‘sightseeing’ but trust me when I say you’ll have your camera glued to your face as you wander around Hargeisa. There is a Mig statue (from their fight for independence) right bang in the city centre, and a vibrant camel market in the city centre on Saturdays. Other than that sit back and absorb a culture as different to the Western world as you’re likely to find.
Las Geel
Unesco have been sniffing around this hidden gem for years but rumours are that they won’t be offering any ‘heritage site’ status until the country becomes an official republic. It is an amazing collection of rock paintings dating back to 9,000 BC. Their level of preservation is something to behold, as is the landscape they are found in. Certainly worth a visit (even with the compulsory hiring of an armed guard).
Berbera
The main industrial hub for the country thanks largely to their large seaport. Berbera offers some cracking beaches and azure waters to make Zanzibar jealous. An English gent has actually opened up a scuba centre here so feel free to submerge yourselves in the cooling water and escape the madness for an hour or two!
Off the Beaten Path
Every trip outside Hargeisa requires car and armed guard rental so the further you venture into the depths of Somaliland, the further those finite US dollars you’re carrying will have to stretch. If you have the time (and money) to delve further, here are a couple of quaint areas to spend a day or two.
Burao
If hectic markets are your scene then Burao is the place to go. The second largest city in the country and once a week they host a chaotic farmers market.
Zeilla
Located in the Salal Region, Zeilla has a lot of personality, most of which focuses around their ancient port. Great sea food, hospitable locals and another chance to go for a dip to escape the heat!
Erigavo
5000 feet up, the climate is much more tropical here. With beautiful mountains to get lost hiking in (literally, so be careful!) Erigavo offers serenity not found elsewhere in Somaliland.
Transportation
Transportation around Somaliland is something of a grey area at the moment. As I alluded to earlier, strictly speaking any journey, by a foreigner, out of Hargeisa requires an armed guard so all public transport should therefore be out of bounds.
In practice this isn’t necessarily so. I met 3 backpackers in Ethiopia who had jumped on the local bus and managed to get to Berbera and back without being noticed by the various security check points en route. Generally speaking though this is the exception, not the rule and should a security check point notice you, you’ll be escorted all the way back to the capital.
Transport then largely comes down to renting a car and a driver and an armed guard. You can sort this out through Abdi Abdi at the Oriental hotel in Hargeisa city centre; he’s a cool guy but naturally charges a fee, so a car, driver and guard will cost around $50 a day for short journeys or around $80+ for longer journeys.
Alternatively, it’s possible for you to go to the Ministry of Interior, Ministry of Tourism and the Police Department in the centre and organize it yourself. This is a cheaper (and slower) option. It will take at least one full day to arrange, possibly two.
Around the cities themselves there are endless supplies of cabs that are eminently affordable but the cities aren’t huge so exploring by foot is a definite option.
In addition, like many African countries (even more so in fact) all you have to do is ask someone for some help and they’ll be more than happy to assist you in any way. So should you require a lift to any area of town that your unsure of, simply ask someone – if they understand, they’ll ask you to jump in. A token tip and a hearty smile is all that is normally all that is required as payment.
Weather & Best Time to Visit
There are no two ways about it folks, this place is hot, dusty and dry. Splash on the sunscreen, drink plenty of water and get yourself a nice tan.
Generally speaking, you’ll only encounter rain from April to July and October to November. Try to avoid July to September unless of course you love actually baking your flesh in the 45 degree afternoon heat! Best to visit early in the year (January, February and March) where you might get away with average temperatures in and around 30°C
Money & Costs
There are NO ATMS or Western Unions in Somaliland so bring enough US dollars for your entire stay.
Somaliland is quite cheap so $20 a day is more than enough if you stay in Hargeisa, if you leave you have to factor in your armed guard ($15 per day) and your car rental ($30) so that cranks up your costs very quickly.
Things are generally paid for in US dollars as the Somaliland currency is a little bit odd. The largest bill available is 500 shillings, which (with an exchange rate of 7,500 Sh to $1 US) equates to 13 cents per note. Imagine paying for your car rental with a wad of those notes! My advice? Stick to the dollars.
People & Culture
Friendly beyond belief. You will be shaking people’s hands all day long, being invited to share food and drinks with every man and his mother and having to turn down offers to stay with people every single day. I should add however that there is the odd character who resents the presence of westerners in their country so you may face a couple of grumbles or minor confrontations during your time. I stress that 99.9% of the people are immensely friendly though.
Accommodation
Cheap, cheap, cheap and actually pretty good (if you’re accustomed to African standards, that is). Five US dollars will get you a single, clean room with a private bathroom. There’s plenty of options so booking in advance is unnecessary, just remember to barter and you’re all set. If you’re looking for something more up-market, there are a couple of passable hotels for around the $50 mark in Hargeisa but anywhere else in the country you’ll be struggling to find the luxury you may be used to elsewhere.
Communication
Language
Somali mostly with a fair bit of Arabic spoken too. English is limited but you still find people who can help you out with the English they learned in their school days. Failing that, there’s always the international language of charades (works every time).
Internet
Wifi used to be almost non-existent but you can’t walk 100m in Hargeisa without seeing a cafe with internet. Don’t get your hopes up though, checking your email and the football scores is okay but skype is a bit of a struggle on these speeds.
Food & Drink
The food here is very average. The most popular carb is actually spaghetti strangely enough. So expect a lot of boiled, boney meat served up with a large bowl of spaghetti. There are splatterings of kebabs and shwarmas dotted around the city centres which can brightens up your meal times considerably. Vegetarians may have to make do with plain spaghetti and fruit, I’m afraid.
Safety
This is an important section for Somaliland. As I mentioned from the outset, Somaliland is not Somalia, however 4 tourists were killed by Islamic fundamentalist from the south a few years ago and since then tensions have been high. Al-Shabaab of Somalia have talked about attacking Somaliland in the future with specific references to targeting tourist hotels, so ultimately the decision rests in your hands.
I found myself completely safe at all times and at no point did I feel threatened, quite the opposite in fact but we mustn’t forget the instability of the region so check the safety recommendations of your home office and embassies before you travel.
Women traveling solo in Somaliland? I wouldn’t recommend it highly. If you’re a woman planning on backpacking through this region, make sure you dress and act as reserved as possible and avoid drawing any additional attention to yourself.
Festivals
Ramadan is adhered to fastidiously so unless you want to join in on the fasting fun, avoid traveling here during it.
May 18th is the Somaliland Independence Day but don’t expect festivities, it is more about honouring the lives lost during the struggle than a celebration of independence and is therefore a very somber affair.
Volunteering & Good Causes
Volunteering is possible in Somaliland however due to the instability of the region most of the positions are filled by locals or experienced NGO employees. However, English teachers are always welcomed by the universities and hospitals in Hargeisa so contact them directly if you would like to pursue those avenues.
Read & Watch
Guidebooks – There is a small section in the Lonely Planet’s Africa and East Africa editions although don’t expect too much information here. For the most part, you’ll be freestyling and enjoying every minute of it.