Ho Chi Minh City Travel and Backpacking Guide

Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) is one of the most visited destinations in Vietnam, with most foreigners either staying or passing through. Ho Chi Minh is a bustling noisy city full of people and motorbikes.

For travellers, there are two main tourism hubs, the upper market area with some big hotels like the Rex or the budget area along Pham Nga Lao where all the budget accommodation, restaurants and travel agencies are situated.

Getting There

By plane
There are numerous flights from all over the country into Saigon, as well as many international flights (in fact much more then to Hanoi). Saigon airport gets about 500.000 passengers each year.

To Saigon:
From Hue & Danang 1.000.000 VND, from Nha Trang 650.000 VND, from Dalat 450.000 VND, from Hanoi 1.900.000

International flights from Saigon
To Pnom Penh 70 $, to Singapore 242 $ with Vietnam Airlines and 287 $ with Singapore Airlines, to Kuala Lumpur 160 $, to Bangkok 170 $

Transportation to/from Saigon-city:
Prices are not fixed here, so rip offs are common. Demand to put on the meter, normal price is about 5 US$, but no more then 7 US$! Our taxi driver put on the meter, and at our arrival the meter said 6.900 (underneath was written “Fare in VND”). Of course 6900 VND is $0.50, so that’s way to low).

I presumed (correctly) the correct fare was 69.000 dong (which is 5 US$). The driver denied this and said it was 6,9 km, and he had to multiply this with the fare per km, thus he demanded 9 US$. I refused and paid him the 69.000 VND (he refused a tip of 11.000 VND !).

So be firm, and pay the fare on the meter. By bus trips from Nha Trang are reasonably comfortable if you’re lucky the bus is not too full.

Where to Stay

Budget backpackers tend to congregate around the Pham Ngu Lao area at the western end of District 1. Cholon has plenty of cheap rooms, but Western backpackers are rare here.

Travellers with a little more cash prefer the more upmarket hotels concentrated around D Dong Khoi at the eastern side of District 1. Central Saigon is the best place to look for fine Vietnamese and Western food, while Cholon’s speciality is Chinese food.

One of the best hotels in town is definitely the New World Hotel. It’s an excellent hotel located at walking distance from both the center and the Pham Ngu Lao area. Rooms have everything like safe, TV, telephone, AC, minibar. They also have a swimming pool, tennis court and small golf court. The usual price is 120 US$, but they give a discounted price of 65 US$ + 15% charges for a double with breakfast.

Another good place is the Equatorial hotel, but they have the disadvantage of being located away from the center. Still, a taxi to the center only costs 1 US$, and they have 5 shuttles a day. Rooms are big and have everything you could wish: AC, TV, telephone, minibar, safe etc… Their swimming pool is quite nice. They have special deals at 60 US$ + 15% for a double including breakfast. Check out their website for more info and reservations.

The KIM DO hotel has an excellent location, but unfortunately this also means that it is a bit noisy. There’s a Karaoke bar behind the lobby, and in the rooms I also heard noises from nearby bars. Breakfast was a good buffet, with even fresh pine apple juice. A double costs 40 US$, but due to the noise I can’t really recommend it.

The REX hotel is a classic, since it used to be the place where the American military held their daily press conferences, and thus you should have a look at their rooftop terrace bar/restaurant. It is a 4-star hotel, furniture is (of course) a bit older . They also have a swimming pool. Price of a double is 59 US$ including breakfast and taxes, for 10 US$ extra they’ll give you a suite with other things. Check their website for more info.

Getting Around

Taxis are pretty cheap and reliable. Price in Saigon is 12.000 VND for the first 2 km, then 1200 VND every 200 m. Cyclo’s can be fun, but of course prices need to be negotiated. I never paid more then 5000 VND for short trips like the center to the travel cafés.

Food and Drink

Behn Tan Market
This is one of Ho Chi Minh’s popular attractions, so not entirely off the beaten track, but certainly home to some sensational Vietnamese dishes that are cooked up before you. From pho and spicy rice dishes to saucy bahn mis, Behn Tan is an excellent intro to the country’s cuisine.

Restaurants
Plenty of options in Saigon, both cheap (go to Pham Ngu Lao area) or more expensive but also very good (go to the area around Rex Hotel).

The Kim Café at De Tham street has good and cheap Vietnamese and other meals If you want to sit on a terrace, but more quiet then at De Tham street, choose one of the pedestrian streets running parallel to it. We went to Zen café which is known for its vegetarian dishes (but a bit spicy for us).

If you want to eat in style (and are prepared to pay for it), go to the Lemon Grass restaurant. It’s a trendy place popular among foreigners, count on 50.000 VND for a course. Service was a bit too fast for our taste though. Nextdoor is the Brodard pastry shop.

What to Do

Explore the Streets
It may sound a bit strange, but I had a great time walking around and just looking at street life (I had just arrived in Vietnam, so the busy street life was quite intriguing). A good idea is to hire a cyclo and indulge yourself in the traffic (10.000 VND is more the enough for a good ride).

The War Crimes Museum
The War Crimes museum is open each day from 7 till 11.45 and also in the afternoon (no closing day contrary to what guidebooks say). Entrance is 10.000 VND. Outside you’ll see some American warfare (helicopter, tank, plane…). Inside you’ll see plenty of pictures of all the atrocities the US did to the North Vietnamese. There’s also 1 pavillion with pictures of all the rallies in support of the North Vietnamese from all over the world.

The Reunification Hall
The Reunification Hall is not bad, but don’t worry if you miss it It is the former presidential palace. It’s opened from 7-11 am and 1-4 pm, entrance is 15.000 VND. you can see all the rooms of the palace, there’s also an American helicopter put on the roof, and in the basement you’ll see the commanding rooms.

Binh Tay Chinese Market
Binh Tay Chinese market is far from the center. A taxi costs 3 US$. There’s nothing to buy for tourists, but a visit can be rewarding to see how the Chinese-Vietnamese trade their typical goods. Nice if you want to take pictures.

Shopping

Saigon is definitely a shoppers paradise for tourists. You’ll also find plenty of shops selling rucksacks of brands like The North Face, Jack Wolfskin, Lowe etc. You won’t see the difference with the real thing, but once you touch the tissue, you’ll see it lacks the strength of the real stuff.

Day Trips and Places to Visit Near Ho Chi Minh City

The most popular are trips to Cu Chi tunnels, possibly combined with a visit to Tay Ninh temple, and then of course there are the numerous trips to Mekong Delta.

Be sure to visit my Vietnam city travel guides for more tips about what to see and do in each place:

Hanoi Travel Guide
Hoi An Travel Guide
Nha Trang Travel Guide