The Virgins–many American, others British–are part of the curving Antilles chain that separates the Caribbean and Atlantic. Among the most beautiful geographic areas in the world, they are blessed with powdery beaches and sun-drenched weather. Islanders represent many nationalities and backgrounds with the majority of African descent.
The islands lie in the path of soft tradewinds blowing direct from Portugal, which perhaps accounts for the fact that “Santa Cruz” was among the first of the islands to be sighted by Columbus on his second voyage westward. He made landfall at Salt River on the north shore of the island. He then sailed northeast, passing St. Thomas, St. John and Tortola and called them collectively Las Virgenes.
After that excitement the islands went back to sleep for more than a hundred and fifty years. They woke to find the French Tricolor on St. Croix, the flag of Denmark planted on St. Thomas and the Union Jack flapping over Tortola (where it still flies). The Arawak Indian population had disappeared. Denmark later bought St. Croix, claimed St. John and began to build the Danish West Indies into thriving sugar cane and trading islands.
Slaves were imported from Africa early on to work the growing number of sugar plantations. The islands were also used as a base for reshipment of slaves to other areas. After the Danish abolition of slavery in 1848, planters began to abandon their estates and the population and economy dwindled.
Threatened by German expansion during World War I, the U.S. bought the Danish West Indies March 31, 1917 and made them American territories. Even then the islands were expensive real estate – almost $300 an acre. In 1927, residents were granted U.S. citizenship. Until 1931, the islands were administered by the U.S. Navy. Then they were placed under the Department of the Interior with a governor appointed by the President.
A locally elected legislature of 15 members from the three U.S. Virgin Islands has operated since 1954 but it wasn’t until 1970 that islanders could vote for their own governor and, in 1972, a delegate to the U.S. Congress. Though U.S. citizens and taxpayers, residents cannot vote for the President of the United States. And the Washington representative votes in committees only, having no vote on the floor of the House.
Since 1960 the U.S. Virgin Islands have nearly tripled in population. Estimates put the figure at 60,000 on St. Croix, 50,000 on St. Thomas and 2,900 on St. John.
Largest of the islands (28 miles long, 7 miles wide) St. Croix is one of the most beautiful resort areas in the Caribbean. Once an island of planters – Alexander Hamilton spent his boyhood here–it is dotted with the ruins and restorations of over 100 sugar mills and great houses. Much of its charm lies in gently rolling hills, stretches of beach and a variety of landscapes from dry cacti-covered areas to a dense rain forest. The historic past can be glimpsed at Estate Whim, an eighteenth century plantation great house and outbuildings, restored by the Landmark Society. The present is represented by elegant resort hotels, golf courses, tennis courts, wonderful snorkeling and scuba diving. Residents are known as Cruzans.
St. Thomas (13 miles long, 3 miles wide), half the size of St. Croix, is capital of the U.S. Virgin Islands and it is there that the governor and legislature conduct their business. Charlotte Amalie’s deep-water harbor, once teeming with four-masted trading ships, now plays host to visiting cruise ships and an impressive fleet of sail and power boats. Dozens of mini islands and cays encircle St. Thomas and St. John and add to the impressive scenery. Some are merely points on navigational charts, others have snippets of history and a few are populated.
Two-thirds of the island of St. John (9 miles long, 5 miles wide) is a National Park donated to the U.S. government by Laurance S. Rockefeller in 1956. One of the most beautiful of the Virgins, it is also the most serene, surrounded by shimmering bays and beaches.
U.S. Virgin Islands Facts
• Climate: the average temperature is 82 degrees, and most days are warm and breezy.
• Currency: The U.S. dollar.
• Language: English
History
On his way to Puerto Rico, Christopher Columbus discovered the islands in 1493 and named them for St. Ursula and her 11,000 virgin followers.
It was not until 1571 when Sir Francis Drake, an English navigator and buccaneer sailed through the passageway separating the British and American Virgin Islands (today called the Sir Francis Drake Channel), that the struggle to claim the Virgins began. As the years passed, Holland, France, England, Spain, Denmark and the Knights of Malts all tried their claims on the Virgin Islands, but in 1733, Denmark finally took hold of the precious tropical paradise.
The Virgin Islands became a haven for pirates, buccaneers and privateers who would keep watch on the seas for unsuspecting ships. Legend has it that when Blackbeard would spot a ship in the harbor he would braid his hair and position candles in it to frighten the sailors when he attacked.
Following many years of prosperous sugar plantations, the African slaves began a series of uprisings that led to the sale of the Islands. In 1917 the United States purchased the land for its strategic proximity to the Panama Canal during WWII.
Where to Stay
St. Thomas and St. John
You can find just about everything in accommodations from $45 a night at a small inn to $1000+ for a suite in a luxury resort, depending on the season.
Our largest hotel, Marriott Frenchman’s Reef, commanding the harbor entrance, has completed a spectacular $45 million dollar renovation. Adjoining it, Marriott Morning Star Resort is a cottage-like colony bordering the beach. The Westin Resort, St. John, allocated $20 million with stunning results. Both hotels are among the most sought-after in the Caribbean.
The elegant Renaissance Grand Beach Resort covers 34 tropically landscaped acres and edges an inviting cove-like beach. Two restaurants, two spacious swimming pools, a watersports center and kids’ club add to the enjoyment.
The Ritz-Carlton, St. Thomas, is one of the most beautiful hotels in the Caribbean. Magnificent, too, is its setting on a white sand beach with views of other Virgins beyond. The Wyndham Sugar Bay is all inclusive. Bluebeard’s Castle sits atop a manicured hill overlooking Charlotte Amalie. Built around a tower that provides its name, it has a time-share plan. They also manage Elysian Resort at Cowpet Bay.
Emerald Beach Resort borders a shimmering beach at Lindbergh Bay, moments from the airport. Nearby is Carib Beach Resort. Island Beachcomber has guests who come back year after year to its 48 rooms– for the beach, its casual lifestyle and nearness to town.
Unhurried Colony Point Pleasant, hillside enclave of villa-style units, catches the northside view of an endless chain of islands and gives you a Toyota free for four hours of touring.
Small inns, some full of West Indian charm, are more often in town or on the surrounding hills. Island View’s rooms are high on Crown Mountain. Mafolie Hotel is another with a breathtaking view of town and harbor. You are on the edge of Frenchtown at the Admiral’s Inn. Blackbeard’s Castle borders the tower that, legend says, pirates once used as a lookout. Their restaurant ranks with the island’s finest. Nearly Hotel 1829 on Government Hill has one of the island’s most charming bars.
Condominium living is spacious and usually means a beach thrown in–like Cowpet and Anchorage (both near the Yacht Club), Sapphire (with a lively childrens’ program) and Secret Harbour. Mahogany Run’s condos overlook the golf course or a sea view.
There are dozens of private villas–with or without pools–renting by the week or month.
On St. John, the luxury trade head for Caneel Bay Resort spread along 7 lovely beaches, or the Westin Resort, St. John, with its gigantic swimming pool. Cinnamon Bay in the National Park gives a choice of tents, one-room units or bare sites. Tents at Maho Bay lean more to comfort. At adjacent Harmony you stay in cottages–each an environmental concept in the use of recycled materials.
St. Croix
St. Croix has many choices of accommodations: perhaps a room at a small guest house in town, a furnished condominium by the sea, a time-share unit, an historic inn with period furnishings, a private villa or a suite at a luxury resort on a beautiful beach. The price range is equally wide: from around $35 to near $300.
The leading hotels of the island are the Buccaneer Hotel, just east of Christiansted and the Carambola Beach Resort and Golf Club at secluded Davis Bay on the north shore. Both resorts offer golf, tennis, watersports, shops, health spa, a sandy beach and several restaurants.
Tennis, pools and restaurants are available at beachfront hotels like Hibiscus Beach Hotel, one of our newer properties west of town. Schooner Bay in the eastern part of Christiansted overlooks the harbor and has a pool.
In town our charming small hotels like centrally located Kings Alley and newly redecorated Danish Manor are popular and convenient to restaurants and shopping, as is the remodeled Holger Danske Hotel, overlooking the harbor. Hotel on the Cay is on its own little island in Christiansted harbor. Breakfast Club, a cozy B&B in the upper part of town, also overlooks the harbor and offers excellent rates.
Near town, historic Hilty House Inn is unique and charming. Right on the beach is elegant Sugar Beach, which also has a pool and a tennis court. Next door, Club St. Croix boasts tennis courts, a pool and a beachside restaurant. Colony Cove is beachfront with a lovely tropical garden and near a reef with fine snorkeling. Tranquil Tamarind Reef, east of Christiansted, has a beach and pool, tennis and croquet. Dive enthusiasts flock to the friendly Waves at Cane Bay in a lovely setting on the north shore or comfortable, air-conditioned Cane Bay Reef Club next door.
For a conference or retreat, Rattan Inn provides banquet facilities and lodgings in scenic and historic surroundings in mid-island.
Frederiksted offers comfortable and central accommodations at the Frederiksted Hotel on the waterfront, and near town at Cottages by the Sea.
Getting Around
Renting a car would be your best bet for exploring the islands. Most companies will deliver a car to your hotel. Avis, Budget and Hertz are recommended.
Local busses are somewhat new and have air conditioning but run an irregular schedules. Taxi cabs are also a traveling option. Most drivers will provide you with a tour if requested. All cabs are unmetered so its a good idea to discuss price and distance before agreeing to a ride.
Ferries frequently run between the islands and the fares are reasonably priced.
Activities
• Boating
• Sailing
• Kayaking
• Parasailing
• Windsurfing
• Scuba Diving
• Golf
• Tennis
• Horseback Riding
Top Things to Do
There are plenty of activities to keep you busy on the Virgin Islands. The most popular is shopping. Especially in Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas, where the largest duty-free shopping center is located. The national parks are also a hot spot. For the nature lover, St. John is a perfect place to experience the wildlife of the region and even snorkel in the protected coral reefs.
Historically when it comes to architecture and pirates, the Islands are ideal. St. Thomas would be your best bet for both. There, Blackbeard kept watch over the harbor, just as depicted in Robert Louis Stevenson’s book Treasure Island. Old pirate warehouses and seafarer mansions have been preserved to enjoy to this day.
Shopping
St. Thomas
Where else do you wander among charming old alleys, down Main Street (still called by its Danish name “Dronningens Gade”) and Back Street lined with the arched doorways of another century, and along a waterfront with shops on one side and on the other side a magnificent horseshoe harbor?
In the tightly compacted area known as downtown Charlotte Amalie, shops are air conditioned but tend to keep their doors flung wide so you can glide from one to the other with ease. Never too far away, in an alley or tropical courtyard, cool drinks and lunch wait at shaded tables.
The big name brands tell comparison shoppers the story–watches, liquors, perfumes, cameras, fashions, cosmetics, china, crystal, electronics–from 10 to 30 percent off U.S. prices and for some watches as much as 50 percent. Some famous names of the world have their own shops like Cartier, Coach, H. Stern, Polo Ralph Lauren, Nicole Miller, Fendi, Benetton, Erno Laszlo, DKNY. Others like Escada, Swarovski, Tiffany’s, Lalique, Waterford, Mont Blanc, Wedgwood, Royal Copenhagen and Rosenthal are in special departments of leading stores. So are the great watch companies–Rolex, Seiko, Citizen, Concord, Piaget, Rado, Omega, Movado, Tag-Heuer, Esquire, Noblia, Jaeger-leCoultre, Ebel, Swiss Army, and more. Again, big savings.
More than two dozen glittering emporiums sell nothing but jewelry. Others have large jewelry departments. Whether you plunge for a spectacular ring, a rope of pearls, an unset sparkler or just a long look, you are assured a dazzling choice.
There are shops selling fine leather handbags and leather goods, often as much as 50 percent off U.S. prices. Others specialize in tablecloths from China, imported perfumes, choicest china and crystal, liquors and liqueurs, famous-name cameras, island crafts, gifts for children, and all sorts of unique items.
Then there are the fashion boutiques–sporty, trendy, designer, classic, funwear T’s–from places as familiar as France and Italy and as far flung as Israel. And the art galleries, both in town and in the country, carry a variety of island-inspired paintings, sculptures and ceramics.
In less crowded Havensight Mall near the West Indian Company dock, shoppers wander among palms and tropical foliage. Many shops are branches of the Main Street stores–Cardow, Little Switzerland, the A. H. Riise Gift and Liquor Stores, H. Stern, Amsterdam Sauer, Colombian Emeralds, Boolchand’s and Royal Caribbean. Others offer a variety of wares and services, among them fashion and sporting goods boutiques, and a one-hour film developer.
At Tillett Gardens, near Tutu, artisans design and sell their work in a courtyard with friendly iguanas lazing about a burbling fountain.
The long row of pretty balconied buildings called American Yacht Harbor at the island’s East End houses a variety of shops and restaurants. Close by, the Red Hook Ferry takes you to St. John with its own unique boutiques at Mongoose Junctions and Wharfside Village.
St. Croix
Courtyards beckon and shaded arcades greet you in downtown Christiansted, the shopping center of St. Croix. Restored West Indian town houses and historic buildings of the 18th and 19th centuries now house many fine stores and restaurants. Shop hours are normally from 10 am to 5pm, Monday through Saturday.
Just east of Christiansted stands the Gallows Bay Marketplace, home to a number of appealing stores. Elsewhere on the island major hotels and shopping malls offer shopping more in the style of the mainland. Specialty shops dot the island and should you tour with a car you can easily visit all of them. Locations are keyed to map numbers.
Sonya’s at 1 Company has offered fine hand-wrought jewelry for over 30 years. It is the home of the original hook bracelet in silver or gold, and Sonya’s elegant new Signature Bracelet is the latest St. Croix collectible. All jewelry is custom made in sterling silver, 14, 18 and 22 karat gold-bracelets, rings, earrings and pendants.
Baci Duty Free, an elegant European-style boutique, offers a splendid walk-in cigar humidor. They also specialize in leading brands of designer sunglasses, gold, black coral and ancient coin jewelry including “Atocha” treasures at great savings, Swaroski crystal, Lladro Nao, Limoges, Halcyon Days porcelain and enamel gifts. Also watches, miniature clocks, pens and Swiss Army knives.
The Natural Jewel (King Street) Specializing in pearl, coral, larimar and semi-precious stone jewelry, designed and handcrafted right there. Between both stores you’ll find one of the largest selections and price ranges.
Food
Most visitors recognize a pina colada, have certainly sampled chicken legs, may be familiar with baked plantain, might even had had whelks Øn rice. But how many know kallaloo, saltfish pates (pronounced: pat-ays), tannia, johnny cake, souse, cassava bread. Fried or boiled fish is not rare but have you had it with fungi (pronounced: foon-gee)? Then there’s guava tart or soursop ice cream. And for a mid-afternoon snack, sugar cakes–delectable concoctions made from boiled sugar and fresh coconut.
Many island recipes come down to us from the “make do” days when imports were far from plentiful and what grew locally (tropical fruits, root vegetables, pigeon peas, chicken, fish, goats, spices and leaves) were staples. Some recipes are based on Africanfare, some arrived with European housewives, others took root in imagination.
Maubi, a foamy local drink, is made from the bark of the maubi tree, herbs and a bit of yeast. Souse, appearing at all festive occasions, is a stew of pig’s head, tail and feet liberally flavored with lime juice.
Simmer local greens, okra, boned fish, ham bone and hot pepper and you have kallaloo. Fungi, a corn meal dumpling, requires a deft hand to give it the right, light texture. The tannia root makes good soup, as do pigeon peas. Johnny cakes (unleavened fried bread) and pate turnovers (pastry filled with spiced beef or saltfish) are everybody’s favorite.
These are often sold at sidewalk stands. Seafood is on the menu of almost every island restaurant. Conch (islanders pronounce it “conk”) is a favorite in garlic sauce as a starter, served cold in a salad, hot as a main dish. It also appears in conch fritters and a delectable chowder. Grouper, snapper, yellowtail and tuna are menu leaders along with lobster (ours is warm-water langouste).
The native-style restaurants can be counted on the serve West Indian fare, among them Eunice’s on Smith Bay Road and Gladys’ Cafe in Royal Dane Mall in town which has island specials. So does Cuzzin’s, also in town on Back Street. Every Friday Bluebeard’s Castle puts on a West Indian buffet lunch and Elysian does a dinner buffet. The ritz Carlton’s Caribbean night each Monday also includes a lively show.
Restaurants and Eating Out
St. Croix:
Indies Restaurant
If you are on St. Croix and are looking for authentic Caribbean food, one of your choices is Indies restaurant. Set in a quaint courtyard overlooked by 18th-century buildings, this is definitely an experience.
Duggan’s Reef
For a variety of foods from fresh fish to racks of lamb, try Duggan’s Reef which overlooks the beach and Buck Island.
St. John’s:
Paradiso
When in St. John’s and in the mood for a specific wine and Italian food, a great place is Paradiso. Though only open for dinner, Paradiso furnishes an expensive wine list.
Palm Terrace
If you would like to enjoy the tropical weather while gazing upon the blue ocean, try Palm Terrace, where you can dine upon fresh seafood.
St. Thomas:
Blackbeard’s Castle
For visitors on St. Thomas, a fun place to dine is Blackbeard’s Castle, where diners look out upon docked cruise ships just like Blackbeard himself!
East Coast Bar & Grill
Another entertaining restaurant is the East Coast Bar & Grill. Most nights there is live jazz music playing while you dine on a choice of everything from fish to burgers.