Jerusalem is on the life list for many travelers, and has been on the international events radar for thousands of years. If you’re finally planning a trip, there are a number of things to do in Jerusalem that you definitely don’t want to miss.
Where to Stay
If you’re going to be in Israel for a while, at least part of your stay should be in the Old City of Jerusalem. Stepping outside the door in the morning onto the streets of antiquity is nothing short of amazing, and most of the heritage sites many people come to Jerusalem to see are either within the walls of the Old City, or very nearby.
The Hebron Youth Hostel is extremely affordable with a number of rooms and dorm beds. They had the best bathroom setup for a hostel we’ve ever run across, although there was no kitchen. However, there was an affordable restaurant downstairs and numerous street food options in the general vicinity.
For the best panoramic view of the city however, you’ll need to spend at least one night at the Citadel Hostel. Their seating area on the roof, while an adventure to climb onto, is the best view you’re going to find. If the sleeping in the Old City doesn’t appeal to you, there are other hotels in Jerusalem and even an affordable B & B for those who prefer a more boutique-oriented travel experience.
For those on a budget, there are plenty of dormitories around Damascus gate. Al Hashimi is recommended. It’s clean and we’ll run, 15 NIS for a bed. I didn’t go there myself, but I heard from others that the nearby Al-Arab is a real mess.
The New Imperial Hotel right at Jaffa gate is reasonable. They charge 44 US$ for a double with bathroom (hot water, but old furniture), breakfast not included. The location is good, not too noisy either (it’s quiet at 11 pm). However, there were 2 reports on the LP thorn tree saying “don’t go to this infested hole”.
More expensive is the YMCA at King David Street in front of the King David Hotel. This is not a youth hostel, but a middle class hotel with lots of facilities: indoor swimming pool, parking place, table tennis, tennis courts etc. The rooms are spacious, furniture a bit old, clean, bathroom included. Price is 110 US$.
Top of the bill in Jerusalem is the King David Hotel, at 500 m from Jaffa gate, although they have now tough competition from the nearby Hilton. The King David exists since 1932, it was the head quarters of the British during the second WW, and one wing of the hotel was bombed in 1946 by the Jewish resistance under the leadership of former PM Menachem Begin, leaving more then 100 people dead.
Anyway, the hotel has everything (and more) you can expect from a 5-star hotel: swimming pool, tennis court, fitness club. The rooms are very spacious with AC, TV, minibar, safe and bathroom. The breakfast is simply incredible. A healthy bank account is recommended (it might not be healthy anymore after you’ve stayed there).
There is also a lot of B&B’s at reasonable prices throughout the city.
Tourist Information
There’s a tourist information at Jaffa gate. They have plenty of info as well as free vouchers giving you reduction on some sights like 10 % for the tower of David (saves you 2,5 NIS), 5% for a touristic flight above Jerusalem or to Masada and others… They’ll say “we don’t recommend the sunrise Masada tour”. They prefer to stick at the horribly expensive tours.
Best Things to Do in Jerusalem
Walking on the Walls
Starting at Jaffa gate, it costs 25 NIS nowadays , but there are other places to start from.
Tower of David
There’s a free guided tour at 11 am every day (except Saturday), it’s really recommended. You’ll also climb on 1 of the towers with a nice view over Jerusalem. Entrance 25 NIS, 10% off with voucher from tourist office, 20% off with green card, don’t know about the student card. There is also a really superb museum, don’t miss it. It gives the history of Jerusalem in the historical settings of this citadel.
Temple Mount
It’s definitely worth going to the Temple Mount. Don’t be put off by the line at the entrance (you can only go in from the Western Wall). This is just a check by the Israeli police for explosives and bibles (apparently a bible can be “explosive” on the Temple Mount), and it goes quite fast.
You don’t have to pay. Only if you want to go inside the Aqsa Mosque, the Dome of Rock and the museum you’ll pay a steep 36 NIS! Actually, they change their price every time the Shekel drops to the dollar, so by the time you read this it might be more expensive already.
Opening hours are limited: from 7.30 to 10.15′ and from 12.30 till 13.30, closed on Fridays.
Visit the Dome of the Rock
While it may be a bone of contention between certain faiths, it’s an impressive and beautiful structure to be sure. Yes, there are numerous photo ops to be had from around the city, but spending time on the grounds and getting to see the tile and structure up close is worth your while.
Of course, if you happen to be a practicing member of the Muslim religion, then this building will be of even greater importance on your travel itinerary. Either way, it’s gorgeous and you should make time to see it and get the best photo ops you possibly can.
Western Wall
For Jewish tourists in Jerusalem, this might very well be the main highlight of your trip. For others, it’s still significant and not to be missed. If there’s a time when it isn’t obtrusive to others praying there, I’ve been told it’s quite an experience to touch the wall and leave a prayer note tucked there.
When we visited however, it was a major Jewish holiday and neither David nor I felt right about taking time away from the throngs of people waiting to approach it. We’ll visit again someday and have our moment then. We did however, walk the grounds and take a few unobtrusive photographs. It’s a part of our Jerusalem itinerary that we are glad we made time for and recommend it to others.
Try to go there on Thursday morning, since a lot of boys will have their Bar Mitzwa, and this is a very colorful and lively experience. Take your telelens. I visited the Western Wall tunnel on a walking tour. It’s nice, but don’t worry if you miss it.
Visit the Garden of Gethsemane
We made our visit to the Garden of Gethsemane on the eve of Good Friday and attended a spiritual service there. However, you can visit on other days and certainly at other times of the year. It’s outside of the walls of the Old City, and a nice uphill walk for a bit of exercise. The church is beautiful, and there are other things to see along the way.
Walk the Via Dolorosa
Even if you don’t happen to be Christian, this is an interesting walking tour to take. It features traditional sites of significance to the Christian faith and passes by still-standing buildings from the time period.
If you stay in the Old City of Jerusalem for any amount of time, you’ll notice groups making the walk daily. Some will stroll with guitars, some will sing and others will simply pray. It’s intriguing to see, regardless of your faith and one of the more famous Jerusalem attractions.
Yad Vashem or Holocaust Museum
I thought this was a very impressive museum. It’s free of charge and there’s a free guided tour at 10 am which is really recommended. Most of the visitors are Jewish. You’ll see pictures of everything which had to do with the holocaust. The museum and Hall of Remembrance are open daily from 9-17 h (Fridays and holiday eves from 9-14 h, Saturday and holidays closed).
Visit the Israel Museum
As art venues go, the Israel Museum is exceptional. The site is massive, and contains a children’s section, an outdoor sculpture garden, the Shrine of the Book and of course the main museum itself. If time allows, I recommend planning a full two-three days to experience this museum properly. Historical religious artifacts, works from artists such as Warhol and Rodin and the incredible Dead Sea Scrolls exhibit are just a few of the highlights you can expect to see at the Israel Museum.
While there are countless other things to do in Jerusalem such as Hezekiah’s tunnel with the kids, or visiting the Mount of Olives, this list represents the highlights if you only have a few days to spend.
It gives you a chance to see important locations from the three Abrahamic religions, see some exceptional exhibits at the national museum and have a meal at one of the most charming restaurants in the city.
Those who have a chance to stay longer, or visit Jerusalem more frequently may of course want to branch out.
Best Jerusalem Sightseeing Tours
Jerusalem Circular Bus Tour
There is a bus line which starts every 2 hours at Jaffa Gate (start 10 am). You can get off where you want and hop on the next bus 2 hours later. You’ll pass every tourist feature of Jerusalem: 20 NIS
Zion Walking Tours
If you want to visit Jerusalem on a guided tour, your cheapest option is Zion Walking Tours. I did their underground tour since this is the only way to visit the Western Wall tunnel on a short notice.
They are not cheap, but at least they are much cheaper then the other tours who pick you up by bus at the hotel. They have small discounts for students (10%), but make sure you have cash US$, because there exchange rate was horrible (5 NIS for 1 US$ if you wanted to pay in NIS).
Here’s a list of their tours with prices:
• The 4 quarters of the city: every day at 9, 11 and 14, 3 hours, 10 US$.
• Underground city of Jerusalem (including Western Wall tunnel): Sunday, Monday, Wednesday at 2 pm and Thursday at 9 am, it takes 3 hours, price 14 US$. This tour was quite nice, the tunnel is just a tunnel, but on the way there’s a great model of how the city was built.
• Old and New Cities, including Mea Shearim: tuesday at 2 pm and Friday at 9 am, 14 US$.
• Old City walls, Sunday 2 pm and Thursday 2 pm, 3 1/2 hours, 16 NIS.
They have other tours as well, their office is in front of the tower of David entrance.
Egged and United Tours
These companies are unnecessary expensive. Of course, you’ll get a 5-star AC bus, even if you’re the only one on the tour…
Here are some examples:
• Jerusalem-Bethlehem-Yad Vashem: 1 day, 46 US$
• Masada-Dead Sea-Ein Gedi: 1 day 66 US$ (this includes entrances and cable car).
• There are plenty of other tours to all parts of the country, also tours to Petra (tough if you don’t have a visa, it’s better to go from Eilat).
Masada Sunrise Tour
This is a popular tour among budget travellers, and I think it’s very good value for money. The tour costs 60 NIS nowadays, but the money changer at Jaffa Gate gave it for 50 NIS (10/98), and this is a real bargain compared to the other tours. Of course, you won’t get a 5-star bus and a guide or anything. Expect a minibus (ours even broke down), and just someone to tell you at what time you need to be back on the bus. Also entrances are not included: 18 NIS (students 13 NIS, Green card accepted) for Masada and 15 NIS for Ein Gedi.
It also goes on Saturday, so it might be a good idea to fill your Sabbath with this tour.
This will be the schedule of the trip:
The trip starts at 3.30 am at Jaffa or Damascus gate. In reality, the buses will leave 10 to 15 minutes late. Apparently they don’t have reservations, so when their bus is full, they simply call another one (this went very fast).
You’ll arrive around 5 am in Massada. I guess you could get in for free if you came a bit later. They open the ticket boot especially for this tour. Climbing up is quite heavy and will take you about 45 minutes. The sun came up at 6 am (October). You get about 1 hour on the site.
Don’t miss the Northern palace with incredible views over de Dead Sea as well as the Southern Tower with views into a canyon. The walk down takes about 30 minutes, you have to be back in the bus at 7.30′. The cable car is not working at this hour, but normally it costs 18 NIS one way, 30 NIS return.
From Masada you go to a beach at the Dead Sea. You can “swim ” from 8.00 till 9.15, which is enough because after 15′ your .ss will start hurting from the irritative salt. Showers cost 5 NIS.
From there you’ll go to Ein Gedi (15 NIS) where you can stay from 9.30 till 11.00. Ein Gedi was really marvellous with several waterfalls. Some people didn’t go in and went instead for a drink, but that’s wrong. Don’t miss it. Go all the way up to the last waterfall by a path on the left side of the river and come back by a path from the other side. It’s possible to bathe in 1 of the many pools.
Then you’ll make a photo stop at Qumran (nothing special) and at the Monastery of Temptation (quite good). Then you go to a restaurant where you can have lunch for 13 NIS.
Tours to the West Bank
I didn’t do these tours myself, but they were recommended to me. All these tours start from the Jerusalem Hotel, Nablus Rd. (near Garden Tomb and bus stop) 052-864 205. I want to remark that this is not a political site, so please don’t start sending e-mail saying Jerusalem doesn’t belong to the West Bank or the West Bank doesn’t belong on a site on Israel or anything like that.
St. George’s Monastery
Afterwards you make a photo stop at the St. George’s monastery. The region here is incredible, and if I would have more time, I would definitely have made a walk here through the Wadi Qelt. However, be careful, murders of Israeli tourists have been reported. Finally you make a stop at the Mount of Olives: great panorama over Jerusalem. You’ll be back around 2 pm.
Jerusalem Walking Tour
Walking tour through the Old City of Jerusalem with an experienced guide. Visit all the religious and tourist sights and learn about the situation of the Palestinians in the city. These types of tour usually leave around 10 a.m. 3 hours 30 NIS
Hebron
Guided tour to the historical and religious sites of Hebron: the Ibrahimi Mosque, Arab Market, glass and pottery factories of Hebron. The tour also provides comprehensive background information about the political situation in the city. Leaves Sunday and Wednesday 10 a.m. 1 day 50 NIS
Ramallah & Nablus
Visit the city of Ramallah, including the Birzeit University and the traditional village of Jifna. Tour the city of Nablus in the northern West Bank and visit its sites, including the Old City, Jospeph’s Tomb, and the Turkish Bath. This tour also includes information about the overall political situation and a visit to one of the refugee camps in the area. 1 day Tues. 10 a.m. 80 NIS.
Food and Eating Out
Most of the restaurants are Kosher here, and this gives problems on Friday evenings. There is a non-Kosher restaurant near the Solomon Hotel (easy to find, it’s the only one which is open on Friday evening). You can have cheese burgers, cordon bleu and other non-Kosher things for around 50 NIS.
The restaurant of the YMCA was very good, although also a bit more expensive. Reservations are needed if you want to sit outside. They have excellent salmon and other dishes at around 80 NIS. This includes a free bottle of mineral water though.
A bit further down King David Street is Rosemary. You sit outside in the garden, pizzas are good and cost around 40 NIS. However, a local told me it’s not considered as a good restaurant and overrun by tourists.
In the old town there are plenty of falafel and shoarma restaurants. There are 2 restaurants at Jaffa gates in a fierce competition (you can see the owners quarrelling with each other if the one has insulted a customer of the other). Their food is not too good, but you have a nice view on what’s happening on the square at the gate.
In my opinion, Amigo Emil Restaurant is one of the nicest place to eat in the old city. The atmosphere is phenomenal, the food is exceptional, and the owner is very friendly. The price was about what you’d expect to pay for a mid-range restaurant in Europe/ the States, and it really is a higher-end experience. It’s also not a stuffy or uptight place, so you can expect to feel comfortable while you enjoy dinner.
Sbarro is a pizza chain and are ok for a quick lunch. 11 NIS for a big piece of pizza, 6 NIS for a large soft drink. This is quite cheap for Israel.
Near the Western Wall is Between the arches café. I didn’t go there, but it looked quite nice and it had reasonable prices for a location so close to the Western wall. To get there, walk to the right exit (standing with your back towards the wall) and go under the arch. It’s directly on the left hand side.
I got the following tips from a local too:
• Good Falafel (some people say the best in Israel) is “Shalom” in Betzalel st. you’ll see the line- and it’s open only till the evening.
• For Humus: “Pinati” in King Gorge st. close to Jaffa st. excellent.
• A place that is open on friday evening (and only in the evenings and always crowded) is “the Shanty”. It’s inside from the Nhalat Shiva st. in the middle.
How to Get Away
Bus
There are frequent buses from Jerusalem to other destinations in Israel. The bus station is quite small and at a 15 minutes walk from Jaffa gate.
Here are some examples of fares and schedules:
• Tel Aviv: every 10 minutes from 5.40 to 23.40, 17 NIS
• Ben Gurion airport: every 30-40 minutes, 17 NIS
• Kiryat Shmona: at 6, 9, 12, 14, 15 and 16.
• Tiberias: every 60 to 80 minutes from 6.30 to 18.15, price 32 NIS
• Haifa: every 30 to 50 minutes from 5.45 to 20.30.
• Beer Sheva: every 30-45 minutes from 6 to 20.
• Eilat at 7, 10, 14 and 17, price 57 NIS.
Train
There’s a train from Jerusalem to Tel Aviv.
Driving
If the idea of renting a car appeals to you view my tips for driving in Israel.
To Amman (Jordan) via Allenby Bridge
Either take an Egged bus (20 NIS)(10/98). Either take a shared taxi near Damascus gate (26 NIS). From the border take a taxi for 3 US$ (10/98). This border post is open from Sunday to Thursday 8 am till midnight, Friday and Saturday from 8 am till 2 pm.
Best thing is to cross in the morning, in mid afternoon or after dark you could spend a lot of time there. Be aware that you cannot get a visa at this border since the Jordanians don’t consider this as a real border. If you don’t have a Jordanian visa, you need to take a bus to Bet shean (2 hours), then take a taxi to the border (15 min) where you can get a visa, and you could then take a taxi to Amman for 20 US$ (10/98).
To Egypt
Egged has buses departing Israel to Egypt.
Jerusalem really is a marvellous city, and one of the most important religions destinations on the planet. If you are planning to visit Israel then the chances are you will make your way to Jerusalem and hopefully my guide has given you ideas how to enjoy the best time possible.