Benin, a sliver of a country between Togo and Nigeria, is the lively home of some of the most vibrant cultural traditions in West Africa.
Widely considered to be the birthplace of Voodoo, Benin’s numerous fetish markets and shrines offer a unique window into this often misunderstood religion. In the north of the country, two game reserves, largely unknown by travelers to Africa, allow you to get up close with lions, elephants, water buffalo, and baboons, among other wildlife.
While the capital is in Porto-Novo, Cotonou is where all the action is. In this coastal city, the largest in the country, you can dance the night away and shop at one of the largest markets in West Africa.
Like many other coastal countries in West Africa, Benin is tropical and humid at the coast and hot and dry in the north. The savanna plateau providing the transition to the northern sahelian landscapes is one reason Benin is still home to significant numbers of big game.
While it may look small on the map, there is a lot to discover here. Many people pass through on a transit visa, but if you take your time, you will realize that Benin is one of West Africa’s treasures.
Visa & Border Crossings
Transit visas cost 10,000 CFA (or roughly $20 USD). They can be purchased on arrival at the border and they are valid for 48 hours if you are crossing from Togo or Nigeria. If you are crossing from Niger or Burkina Faso, the transit visa is valid for 7 days. You can extend your visa at the immigration office in Cotonou for 12,000 CFA.
Do not assume you can get a visa on arrival at the airport. This has been an inconsistent service and according to the US State Department, “visas are not routinely available at the airport.” Instead, contact the embassy of Benin in your country or in Paris. You need to have a valid yellow fever vaccination to receive a visa.
Togo – The main border crossing is near Grand Popo on the coast. This is a heavy traffic crossing and don’t be surprised if you have to spend some time before getting through. A less stressful crossing is in the north of the country at Boukombé.
Nigeria – The main border crossing is at Chikandou. Relatively painless crossing on the Benin side, but don’t expect things to move quickly on the Nigerian side.
Niger – The main border crossing is at Malanville, located in northeastern Benin. It is close to the National Park W, which is partly in Niger and partly in Benin.
Burkina Faso – The main border crossing is at Nadiagou, close to Pendjari National Park in northwestern Benin.
Tourist Attractions & Top Things to Do
Cotonou
Close to a million people live in this coastal city and despite the fact that it is loud and polluted, it is not to be missed. The Dantokpa Market, covering over 20 hectares, provides one of the most eye opening market experiences in the region. It is at Dantokpa Market where approximately 1 billion CFA change hands every day. Cotonou is also home to the country’s best nightlife and whether you want to dance in a club or relax with a drink to a live band, it’s all possible here. Other notable sights include the Cotonou Cathedral and the University of Benin.
Lake Nokoué
Located just north of Cotonou (about 3 to 4 hours by road), this lake would be unremarkable except for the fact that 20,000 people live above it. The stilt village at Ganvie is a popular tourist destination and it’s easy to see why as it is widely considered to be the largest lake village on the continent. You can hire a guide and tour the sprawling village on a pirogue. Check out the floating market and some of the craft shops and if you want to stay the night you can stay in the stilt hotel.
Ouidah
Ouidah was one of Portugal’s main ports in the Atlantic slave trade. It is a stark reminder of a particularly dark chapter in human history. Walk along the Route des Esclaves and experience the final passage before slaves were boarded onto ships to the new world. The path leads to an arch known as the Door of No Return, a memorial to all those who were forced to leave the continent.
Ouidah is also the capital of the voodoo religion in Benin and there are numerous shrines here, including the Python Temple, where, you guessed it, there are a lot of pythons, many of which can be placed around your neck if you are willing!
Off the Tourist Trail
Pendjari National Park
Located in the far northwest of Benin is one of the best game reserves in all of West Africa. Pendjari is not the easiest place to get to, but if you make the trek you will be rewarded with a chance to see lions, hippopotamuses, water buffalo, crocodiles, elephants, warthogs, baboons, and several types of gazelle. It is also considered a top destination for bird watching.
Don’t be surprised if you have the park to yourself, few people make the journey despite the fact that wildlife is abundant. You can stay at the Pendjari lodge which has simple rooms and a restaurant on site. It is recommended that you hire a driver or a car to get to the park as arranging public transportation to Pendjari can be difficult.
Malanville
Close to Benin’s other northern game reserve, W National Park, Malanville is a remote outpost on the Niger River that serves as a center of commercial activity for this part of the Sahel. Here you will see the intersection of Benin’s many ethnic groups with those of Niger, including Tuareg nomads who have brought their wares from various points across the Sahara and the Sahel. You will find languages, cuisines, and music from all over West Africa here, truly a cultural melting pot.
Abomey
Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985, the royal palaces at Abomey offer a window into the ancient kingdom of Dahomey. From 1625 until 1892, the various kings of Dahomey held court here, until French forces took the country. Bas-reliefs that line the walls tell stories that shed light on the history of the West African kingdom.
Interestingly, many sculptures and carvings indicate that female warriors played an important role in the success of the Dahomey kingdom. A devastating fire in 2009 damaged many of the structures, and a restoration plan was put in place. Depending on when you visit, some of the buildings may be closed because of ongoing restoration efforts.
Weather & Best Time to Visit
The weather in Benin is typical of other coastal West African countries. The most oppressive time of year the month of March, which is the hot season (in the north, the hot season continues to May). Temperatures can reach over 100 degrees Fahrenheit (38 degrees Celsius) during this time.
Benin is unique in the sense that the southern part of the country has two rainy seasons. One from April to mid-July and another from mid-September to late October. The north of the country has one rainy season, from June to October.
While temperatures are cooler during the rainy season, many roads, especially in rural areas, become impassable. The cool and dry season is from November until February, but keep in mind that starting in January the harmattan (winds from the Sahara that bring sand and dust) commences and continues until March.
Money & Costs
Benin, like the other Francophone countries in West Africa, uses the CFA franc, which is pegged to the euro at a rate of 500 CFA to 1 Euro. Benin has prices similar to Togo and it is generally more affordable than some other countries in French West Africa, like Mali and Cote d’Ivoire.
Expect to pay $15-20 a night for comfortable accommodation and $4-5 for most meals. In Cotonou you can expect to pay higher prices if you are going to expat bars and restaurants and opting for more upscale hotels.
ATMs are readily available in Cotonou and Porto-Novo, but can be hard (or impossible) to find elsewhere. The following banks all have ATMs: Financial Bank, Bank of Africa, Ecobank and BTCI. Don’t expect to use MasterCard (I’ve found that many of the ATMs don’t accept MasterCard even when there is a MasterCard logo on the machine).
Visa is your best option for a debit/credit card. Some banks will also do cash advances with Visa. If you are traveling to rural areas, take out plenty of money before hand. For example, there is no way to get money anywhere near Pendjari National Park in the north of the country.
People
The people of Benin, known as Beninois, are a mix of the Fon, Yoruba, Bariba, and Goun ethnic groups. You’ll generally find that people are more socially conservative the farther north you go in the country. Along the coast, don’t be surprised to see people drinking and dancing the night away at roadside bars.
The Beninois are enormously friendly and welcoming and whether you can speak French (or one of the local languages) or not, you will find people going out of their way to greet you and make you feel at home. Music and dance are important here and if you truly want to make an impression, cast off your inhibitions and hit the dance floor!
Voodoo
There are many people that practice voodoo in Benin and if you are traveling there, it’s best to leave preconceptions and presumptions at home. Voodoo is often portrayed by western media and entertainment as something diabolical and evil.
In Benin, you will discover that there is much more to this intricate religion. While fetishes and spirit possession play a part, there are other important aspects, like respect for ancestors and elaborate trance dancing. Explore voodoo with an open mind and get to know one of the world’s most interesting religions.
Accommodation
There is a wide variety of accommodation options in Benin. In rural areas, you will find simple hotels and guesthouses. These will typically offer beds with a mosquito net, fans, and bucket showers. For this kind of accommodation expect to pay $5 – $10 a night.
In Pendjari National Park, there is a game lodge with spacious rooms that include a private bath with a shower. Expect to pay $20 – 30 a night for lodging there.
In Cotonou and Porto-Novo there are is a greater variety of accommodation options including upscale and luxury hotels. You can also find budget hotels and guesthouses that have air conditioning and private baths for $20 – $25 a night. Low budget accommodation in the form of youth hostels is very difficult to find.
Communication
Language
French is the official language of Benin, and it is widely spoken in urban areas and even in many villages. In the southern part of the country, you will also hear Fon and Yoruba spoken, while in the north, Baatonum, Fula, and even Mossi (widely spoken in Burkina Faso) are spoken. Few people speak English.
Phones
The principal cell phone networks are MTN, Moov, Glo, Bbcom and Libercom. Sim cards can be purchased for $2-3 and local calls are dirt cheap so travel with an unlocked cell phone or buy one when you are there. You can buy cards to top up your phone credits just about anywhere.
Internet
Internet cafes abound in Cotonou and Porto-Novo, but they can be harder to find elsewhere. Expect slow, but reliable connections.
Food & Drink
Benin has cuisine similar to that of other West African countries. There are several starchy staples that form the base of many dishes. Akassa, made from cornmeal, is one such staple. It is commonly served with fish and a sauce made with tomatoes and chili. Pounded yam is another staple and it is often served with delicious sauce arachide (peanut sauce).
Other vegetarian dishes include abobo (a bean dish) and gari, made from ground cassava. Meat and fish are eaten with most meals, however. For a true sampling of Beninois cuisine, grab a bite from several stalls on the street. Go to the stalls that see the most traffic, chances are the food is delicious (and also hygienic).
Flag and Castel are the two most popular beers in French West Africa, but when you are in Benin, you must try the local brew, la Beninoise, a refreshing pale lager, which also happens to be extremely cheap. On the coast, you will also find palm wine, a low alcohol wine that is made from fermented palm sap.
Health
Malaria is widespread in Benin, and you should purchase anti-malarial prophylactics before traveling. P. Falciparum, the most lethal strain of malaria, is present in Benin I have come down with Malaria twice before (the prophylactics are not 100% foolproof, but they probably made the symptoms less severe) and both times I treated it with Coartem, a medication that can be used for stand-by emergency malaria treatment.
Consult a travel health clinic before going to get necessary immunizations and recommendations for anti-malarials. A Yellow Fever vaccine is required to get into the country and I would also recommend a Typhoid vaccine. Coartem, and anti-malarials like malarone and doxycycline can be purchased cheaply at any local pharmacy in Benin. 30 Doxycycline tabs will run you about 2,000 CFA ($4 USD) and a box of Coartem should cost around 4,000 CFA ($8 USD).
You can take all the precautions you want, but you most likely still come down with some form of traveler’s diarrhea. I’m not telling you this to give you license to eat and drink freely – make sure food is fully cooked, peel or wash fruits and vegetables, and do not drink the tap water. I’m just telling you that despite careful eating, you will still have a few, maybe many, bad experiences sitting on a toilet or squatting over a hole in the ground.
To treat traveler’s diarrhea, take rehydration salts (can be purchased for less than a dollar at any pharmacy in Burkina Faso) with water. Imodium and Pepto-Bismol only treat symptoms and in the case of Imodium, they will do more harm than good (it slows down your gut, keeping the bacteria in longer).
If diarrhea lasts longer than a few days, take ciprofloxacin, the atomic bomb of antiobiotics, which you can purchase at any pharmacy. If there is blood in the diarrhea or your exhibiting other symptoms like fever or sulfur burps (sulfur burps = giardia, have fun!), get to a clinic as soon as possible.
Safety
Violent crime is rare in Benin and the biggest threat to your safety is unquestionably on the roadways. Try to avoid travel at night, and when possible take buses rather than minibuses, bush taxis, and motos. Petty theft can be a problem in Cotonou and Porto-Novo.
Take care in crowded areas and always keep an eye on your belongins. I would recommend carrying your most important items (passport, cash, credit/debit cards) in a money belt. Finally, don’t wear expensive or flashy jewelery or accessories. Women will also attract far less attention if they dress conservatively.
Read & Watch
L’Esclave (The Slave) – Felix Couchoro is considered a pioneer of West African literature and this is considered the first novel from Benin.
Music from Benin – Do a youtube search on some of these artists for a taste of music from Benin: Pedro Gnonnas y sus Panchos, Angélique Kidjo, Zeynab and All Baxx.