Largely unvisited by travellers, Ghana is home to rich culture, a variety of stunning environments, and millions of friendly people.
Travel here and can see elephants and visit basket-weaving villages in the North, you can have beaches to yourself along the coast, and you can dance all night in the clubs of Accra. There is very little crime and the cost of living and traveling is low.
While many countries in West Africa have dealt with some form of civil war, Ghana has peacefully transitioned to a high-functioning democracy. The economy is looking up because of the recent oil discovery off the coast, and continued success with cocoa (2nd biggest producer in the world) and gold-mining.
Infrastructure development and gender inequality continue to be major issues, and many of Ghana’s poorest people have not seen any economic benefits from the trade in cocoa and natural resources.
There are indeed aspects of travel in Ghana that make for a more challenging experience. Power and water cuts are a regular occurrence even in the cities.
The climate is unforgiving – high temperatures and extreme humidity in the south and scorching heat in the north. And you almost certainly will face some variety of traveler’s diarrhea. But if you approach it with the right attitude, Ghana will provide an unforgettably vibrant and rewarding experience.
View my top tips for going backpacking or travelling independently in Ghana.
Visa & Border Crossings
Visas are $60 USD for single entry (60 days) and $100 USD for multiple entry. Visas can be obtained on arrival at the airport, but not at land borders. It would be wise to get a visa before hand even if you are traveling by air – many airlines will not let you on the plane if you don’t have a visa.
If you are traveling overland you can obtain a visa at the Ghanaian embassy in Abidjan, Cote D’Ivoire, Lome, Togo, or Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso.
Here are the major land border crossings:
Crossing into the Ivory Coast
Elubo (along the coast, this is the most commonly used border crossing)
Oseekodwokrom (further north)
Gonnokuram (also north), on the road to Sunyani
Crossing into Togo
The most commonly used and officially recognized crossing is at Aflao.
Crossing into Burkina Faso
The main crossing is at Paga (Northeast Region)
There is another smaller crossing at Hamale (Northwest Region)
Top Things to Do in Ghana
There is not a traditional tourist trail in Ghana. There are simply not that many travelers. That said, there are several more well known attractions that are worth visiting.
Slave Castles in Elmina and Cape Coast
The coast of Ghana is home to slave trading forts that once actively shipped Africans from as far as Niger, to the New World. Visiting them now is a visceral experience that forces you to confront one of the ugliest chapters in history. If you are only going to visit one, go to the castle at Elmina. It is well-preserved and considered the oldest European building in sub-Saharan Africa. A tour costs 8GHC (about $10 USD). Elmina is easily accessed from Accra and Cape Coast.
Mole National Park
This is the largest park in Ghana and while it is difficult to see big game in West Africa, here you will be able to see plenty. Or at least plenty of elephants, anyways. Stay at the Mole Motel and have a pool-side beer while watching elephants drinking and bathing in the nearby watering hole.
The entrance fee to the park is a mere 10GHC (about $13 USD) – try comparing that to the exorbitant costs of safaris in East and South Africa. Word of warning: baboons are exceptionally clever and mischievous – secure your food at all times. Mole is located in Northern Ghana. Take transport to Tamale (a major hub in the north) and then you can easily find a variety of options (bus, tro-tro, and taxi) to get to the park itself.
Kakum National Park
Kakum National Park is the only rainforest park in the country and while it is difficult to see large numbers of animals, there is a well maintained canopy walk that you can take through the trees. It is also located near the slave castles of Cape Coast and Elmina, and Monkey Forest Reserve, a well-run animal sanctuary.
Wli Falls
The highest waterfall in West Africa is located in the Volta Region of Ghana, close to the border of Togo. Besides admiring the height of the falls and the thousands of bats that set up shop in the nearby cliffs, you can also swim in the pool below. There are several hikes you can take of varying difficulty. The surrounding scenery of lush green mountains and forest is beautiful.
Accra
Accra is the capital of Ghana and it is its most cosmopolitan city. The main market, Makola, is a massive, sprawling explosion of color and life. You can find everything from deodorant and fabric to sides of beef and enormous snails. Osu is the main expat area and it offers a variety of bars and restaurants.
Asylum Down is another neighborhood that offers much in the way of dining and nightlife. The crowded neighborhoods of Nima and Newtown are often neglected by tourists, but they provide a window into Hausa culture from Northern Ghana and Nigeria. The true life of Accra is on the roadside and you should not leave without getting a drink and a bite to eat in one of the busy streetside chophouses.
Kumasi
Kumasi is the second largest city in Ghana and it is the historical seat of the Ashanti Kingdom. The rich cultural history of the Ashanti people can be discovered here and you can take in an Asante Kotoko football match or check out the craziness of the central market. Kumasi is also close to Lake Bosumtwi and transport can be easily arranged to Takoradi, Tamale, Cape Coast, and Accra.
Off the Tourist Trail
Beaches of Dixcove
Green Turtle Lodge is a mecca for volunteers, travelers, and expats. It’s not hard to see why. It is located on a beautiful stretch of deserted beach in Western Ghana. Lounge in hammocks, drink with other travelers, visit the nearby fishing village, and enjoy some seriously delicious food. This beach is also one of the few places where you can swim without worrying about dangerous riptides. In addition, the lodge is eco-friendly, using solar power, sustainable materials, and composting toilets.
Lake Bosumtwi
Formed by a meteor crash and set amidst mountains, this lake is not to be missed. Enjoy a hike around the lake or rent a canoe and explore some of the fishing villages nearby. The Rainbow Garden Village Guesthouse provides great accommodation directly on the lake and they also rent bicycles so you can cycle around the lake and surrounding area.
Bolgatanga
This northern village is an absolute gem. It is in the far north of the country and hardly anyone travels here. Most visitors to Ghana go as far north as Mole National Park and then head back south. They are missing out on a laid back village that provides a window into a totally different culture. Renowned for its basketweaving, Bolgatanga has a lively market that is active every day (although less so on Fridays and Sundays).
The Volta Region
This is my favorite part of Ghana. Cooler temperatures, lush green mountains, and people that will give you a perma-smile. Many travelers will visit Wli Falls and head back to Accra without seeing the surrounding area. I recommend taking your time here. Visit Ho and Hohoe and stay at the Mountain Paradise Lodge near the village of Biakpa.
Situated directly in front of Mount Gemi, this lodge provides comfortable accommodation, excellent food, and you have easy access to a beautiful valley filled with cocoa and banana plantations. Don’t worry about getting lost, you’ll likely come across a villager who will invite you to their home in addition to showing you the way back.
Weather & Best Time to Visit
Average yearly temperatures in Ghana range between 21° and 32° C (70–90° F ). While 21 degrees may seem lovely, keep in mind that the humidity is close to 100% in the south of the country.
The north is drier, but hotter as well. The coolest temperatures come between June and October, during the rainy season when each day is typically punctuated by a short rainstorm. March and April are unquestionably the hottest months and they can be straight up brutal.
Also, keep in mind that most of Ghana is covered in a cloud of sand from January – February. This is called Harmmatan and it is the result of sand blowing south all the way from the Sahara. The further north you go, the longer Harmattan lasts. While it is not good for photography, it does provide for some cooler temperatures.
Money & Costs
Ghana is one of the cheapest countries to travel to in West Africa. Comfortable accommodation can be found for $15 USD a night. Meals can be purchased for several dollars on the street and in chophouses. Transportation is also cheap and most activities and tours (like Mole and Kakum National Park) have minimal fees.
ATMs are readily available in Accra, Kumasi, and Takoradi. If you are traveling far from urban areas, you would be wise to bring plenty of cash. In the cities and at border areas, it is also easy to change money if you have either pounds, dollars, or euros. Few places will take credit cards – don’t expect to be able to use them at all.
People
Ghanaians have a deserved reputation for extreme friendliness. While there are many ethnic groups in Ghana, there is none of the inter-ethnic or religious tension that can be found in parts of other countries in the same region (Northern Nigeria for instance).
“You are invited” (as in you are invited to eat with me) and “you are welcome” (akwaba in Twi – as in you are welcome to my house) are the two phrases you will hear most often in Ghana. You will rarely come across someone who is not quick to laugh and smile.
Accommodation
Accommodation in Ghana is easy to find and generally very cheap.
The most notable hostels in the country are Big Milly’s in Kokrobite, and the Green Turtle Lodge near Dixcove. While I would fully recommend Green Turtle, I’ve had some less than amazing experiences at Big Milly’s, not necessarily because of the place itself (it’s close to Accra and always good for a party), but because of the whole getting robbed on the beach thing – a problem Kokrobite has been dealing with for years.
While there are not that many hostels, hotel and guesthouse stays are generally very cheap. I stayed in a guesthouse in Newtown, Accra (Yas Guesthouse) that charged $12 a night and it included my own bathroom with shower. For slightly more, you can find a room with airconditioning as well. There are of course high end options for hotels in Accra, Kumasi, and in Cape Coast, where you will likely pay close to Western prices.
Finally, I would recommend that you give Couchsurfing a try in Ghana. If you are unfamiliar with the site, it allows you to find locals willing to provide you accomdation at their homes free of charge. Besides the obvious benefit that you don’t have to pay for accommodation, it also allows you to forge new friendships and to get an inside look at Ghanaian culture.
Some of my best friends in Ghana I met through Couchsurfing and my experience would not have been the same without them.
Communication
Language
English is the official language of Ghana, but there are close to 80 different languages and dialects in the country. The major local languages are Twi, Ga, Fanti, Hausa and Ewe. Twi is the mostly widely spoken local language and you would do well to learn at least a bit of it. In addition to allowing you to communicate with more people, speaking Twi will endear you to Ghanaians and lead to many opportunities you won’t discover otherwise.
Phones
There are four cell phone networks in Ghana: Tigo, MTN, Vodafone, and Zain. Everyone has a cell phone and sim cards are just a dollar or two. Local calls are cheap and it’s worth it to travel with an unlocked phone or buy a cheap one at the market once you arrive.
Internet
Cafes with internet are easy to find. Connection speeds and quality vary widely.
Food & Drink
Ghanaian food is similar to that of other West African countries.
There are several doughy, starchy staples, like Banku and Kenkey (both made with fermented maize meal) and Fufu (cassava and plantain), which are served with different stews and sauces – groundnut stew and light soup being the most common. Banku and Kenkey are most often eaten with fish, usually tilapia, and fufu is often served with goat.
Jollof rice and waakye (a rice and beans dish) are two other typical dishes that you can find from streetside vendors and restaurants alike. Jollof rice is cooked with tomatoes, onion, and chile. Waakye is made using the flavorful waakye leaf. Both dishes are delicious and inexpensive.
In fact, food in Ghana is very cheap. Chophouses and roadside stands provide hearty meals for $2-3. If you are cooking for yourself, you can shop at a local market and find even lower prices. In the cities, Accra and Takoradi in particular, there are restaurants that cater primarily to expats. These are more expensive and often charge Western prices for food and drink.
Drinking is also very affordable in Ghana. On the roadside expect to pay less than a dollar for a 32 oz. beer. If you go to a bar expect to pay slightly more. At a club, you may find yourself paying Western prices. Star, Club, Gulder, and Guinness are the beers sold in Ghana. Star is the most popular and the lightest. I prefer Gulder – it is a bit darker and more flavourful.
Ghanaians drink their fair share of liquor as well. A local favourite that I’ve come to enjoy myself, is two shots of gin, one shot of Alomo Bitters (a locally produced bitters) and a shot of lime cordial. You can also buy shots in ketchup packet sized sachets if you need something on the go!
Health
Malaria is prevalent in Ghana, and despite the warnings about side effects of anti-malarials, you should take one – P. Falciparum, the most lethal strain of malaria, is endemic in Ghana.
I have come down with Malaria twice before (the prophylactics are not 100% foolproof, but they probably made the symptoms less severe) and both times I treated it with Coartem, a medication that can be used for stand-by emergency malaria treatment.
Consult a travel health clinic before going to get necessary immunizations and recommendations for anti-malarials. A Yellow Fever vaccine is required to get into the country and you would be wise to get Typhoid as well. Coartem, and anti-malarials like malarone and doxycycline can be purchased cheaply at any local pharmacy in Ghana. 30 Doxycycline tabs will run you about $4 USD and a box of Coartem should cost around $8 USD.
You can take all the precautions you want, but you most likely still come down with some form of traveler’s diarrhea. I’m not telling you this to give you license to eat and drink freely – make sure food is fully cooked, peel or wash fruits and vegetables, and definitely do not drink the tap water. I’m just telling you that despite careful eating, you will still have a few, maybe many, bad experiences sitting on a toilet or squatting over a hole in the ground.
To treat traveler’s diarrhea, take rehydration salts (can be purchased for less than a dollar at any pharmacy in Ghana) with water. Imodium and Pepto-Bismol only treat symptoms and in the case of Imodium, they will do more harm than good (it slows down your gut, keeping the bacteria in longer).
If diarrhea lasts longer than a few days, take ciprofloxacin, the atomic bomb of antiobiotics, which you can purchase at any pharmacy. If there is blood in the diarrhea or your exhibiting other symptoms like fever or sulfur burps (sulfur burps = giardia, have fun!), get to a clinic as soon as possible.
Safety
Violent crime is generally unheard of in Ghana. Petty crime does occurr in the larger cities and in the beach town of Kokrobite. Take standard precautions when in busy or crowded areas – keep your belongings close, don’t carry anything flashy (jewelry etc.), and walk confidently.
While there are less scams in Ghana (these seem to come with high numbers of tourists), be wary of anyone offering you something too good to be true – at the very least ask several different people before committing to it!
Tips for Female Travellers
Women will have to regularly fend off marriage proposals, but that’s about it. From my observation and from talking to female travellers, these can easily be repelled with a bit of humour and Ghanaian men will rarely press the issue.
Be are of cultural sensitivity, don’t wear anything above the knee. In Ghana it is considered offensive for both men and women to show their thighs, so if you’re travelling here, make sure you pack long board shorts, or maxi skirts and dresses for women.
Road Safety
As far as actual threats to your life, this is the only category that should concern you. Road accidents are an unfortunate part of life in Ghana and even if you are not in one, you will likely come across one of the many grisly aftermaths.
Music & Dance
Ghana boasts some of the most powerful traditional music and dance in the region along with a blossoming contemporary music scene based in Accra. Palm Wine Music and Highlife mark the post-independence period. This music, with its polyrhythms and elastic guitar, will make you smile just as much as it will make you dance.
Check out E.T. Mensah and his Tempos band for some highlife when it was in its prime. These days, you will likely hear a lot of “Hiplife” – a synthesizer-drum-machine version of highlife with rapping on top – on Ghanaian radio. Saakodie (featured in the far right of the photo ahove), Obrafour, VIP, and tic-tac are some of the major stars.
Traditional music is centered around various drums and the different rhythms played on them. Kpanlogo is a typically Ghanaian drum and there are specific dances that accompany the rhythms. It should be said that Ghanaians will dance to anything and everything.
I once delighted in a roadside dance party that started because a truck selling dish soap pulled up with twin speakers each the size of a ten-year-old. No trip to Ghana is complete without taking in your share of music and dance.
Volunteering & Good Causes
I have put together an awesome guide on volunteering programs and you can read it for free. For more options there are lots of options in Ghana, I recommend these volunteer projects in Ghana.