Hue lies at the center of Vietnam. The city has a really interesting history and it suffered a lot during the TET-offensive in 1968. Hue is an imperial city and the temples and tombs are really worth visiting.
Hue is divided in two parts by the Perfume river. The southern part holds the hotels and almost all restaurants. Two os the best streets for tourists are ‘Le Loi’ along the river and ‘Hung Vuong’. The old city part (north) is surrounded by the citadel and holds the imperial city.
The DMZ-zone is not far away and can be visited on a day trip.
Getting There and Away
Train
Trainstation close to the Buu Thi Xuan street. The reunification express Hanoi-HCMC stops here.
Plane
Phu bai airport (14 km south of Hue):
- There is a counter where you can buy a ticket for a bus to the city center.
- Ticket: 25.000 VND (if you want to get of on a specific place), 15.000 VND (at the airline booking office)
Local Buses
To the South (Danang-Nha Trang-HCMC) at the An Cuu station.
To the North (Dong Hoi-Vinh-Hanoi) at the An Hoa station.
Tourist Bus
Booking office (about 5 Sinh Cafés in town) : Sinh café, Hung Vuong 8, Hue
Schedule:
- To Ninh Binh (560 km, 14 hrs) with stop at Dong Ha..
- To Hoi An (140 km, 6 hrs) with stops at Lang Co beach, Hai van Pass, Danang (cham museum (Da Nang), marble mountains or china beach).
Getting Around Hue
Cyclo’s are very popular, but don’t pay more then 5000 VND for a regular ride.
Where to Stay
There are lots of top hotels in town:
In my point of view (and I checked all of them) the Century River (Le Loi 49) is the best, although I read some other people don’t agree. Its location is superb along the river, right where the boats congregate on the river. They have great views from the rooms, the restaurant and the swimming pool. They have a good swimming pool and tennis court. Rooms are good with AC, fridge, TV, telephone. Normal price is 70 US$ for the cheapest room, 80 $ for a river view room and 100 $ for deluxe rooms.
Nextdoor is the Huong Giang Hotel (Perfume river hotel)(Le Loi 51). The setting is equally good along the river.The hotel was built in 1960 and isshowing its age, although they have a new wing next to the swimming pool.Cheapest rooms go for 35 US$ with AC, TV, fridge. More expensive rooms are 45 US$ for garden view and 55 $ for river view. I don’t think there was much difference between the rooms, except that the more expensive rooms have a nicer corridor with nicely carved doors of the rooms.
The Saigon Morin, ( Le Loi 30) is one of the best hotels in town. It is more centrally located then the 2 hotels above, next to the Tran Tien Bridge, but not next to the river like the others. Therefore, you can only have a riverview from their panorama bar.The rooms are nicely built around a peaceful and quiet courtyard hich also holds a swimming pool. The rooms are OK but did not impress me too much. A standard double room costs 60 US$ including VAT and breakfast, but discounts are available.
Thang Long hotel, Hung Vuong 16, 25 Rooms (10-15 US$) with AC, fan, TV, fridge, bathroom with bad/shower (hot/cold). Free pick up from airport or trainstation if room reservation is made by fax, tel or e-mail. Payment with TC, master card, VISA, American express.
Restaurants & Cafés
Be sure to visit the world famous “Lac Thanh” and “Lac Thien” restaurants, because the chief cooks at these restaurants are deaf-mute. I went to Lac Thien and the food was indeed great. Don’t expect too much of the surroundings though: plastic chairs, no napkins and you’re almost sitting on the sidewalk.
The Paradise Garden restaurant is popular with locals. It’s under the trees next to Thien Trang Bridge.It is a slightly upmarket place. Prices are between 20.000 and 30.000 for a plate.
News Café restaurant, Hung Vuong 14 – Both food stalls, I can hardly call it a restaurant, are liying next to each other and serving the same dishes at the same cheap price. If you pass by young girls will try to shout (get) you in.
Open Bistro, Hung Vuong 8. Same food and price as the two above but a nicer setting (open restaurant). It’s part of the Sinh Café. This one carries away my preference.
What to Do in Hue
Citadel
The citadel is a 10 km long wall which encloses the old part of Hue. A moat encircles the entire citadel. There are 10 entrances (bridge or road) leading to the innerside. The citadel holds the imperial city inside. It closes at 5.30 pm, so it is possible to visit after you return from your Perfume River trip, or after your bustrip from Hoi An. A 2 hour visit is more than enough time here.
Imperial City
It was the former place for political and administrative activities of Nguyen dynasty and also the residence of the Royal family. The surrounding wall has a square shape and four entrances. Due to the heavy fighting during the TET-offensive in 1968 almost nothing remains from the palaces and temples. Only a few palaces, which are heavily reconstructed, can be visited. The purple city, area only reserved for the emperor and his family, is totally blown away. Only a few foundations can be seen, the rest is grassland. The imperial city is a must see but don’t expect too much. Admission is 55.000 VND.
Thien Mu Pagoda
The Thien Mu Pagoda is symbol of Hue. Behind the pagoda stands the blue car from the monk Thich Quang Duc who burnt himself to death in Saigon as a protest against the Diem regime. No admission fee and it is located at the perfume river, +/- 4 km from the imperial city.
Day Trips and Places to Visit Near to Hue
River Tombs
Most people take a boat trip and visit the tombs along the river. There is a scam going on with entrance tickets to the tombs. Boatmen collect the tickets from you, and then give them to corrupt guards who sell these tickets to tourists who don’t notice. So make sure the ticket you buy has not been used before.
The Perfume River (recommended)
The banks of the Perfume river became the royal graveyard for the 13 rulers of this area. More then 7 tombs are spread out in the south of Hue. Since you can’t visited them all the most interesting are the ones mentioned below. Because all 3 of them have a wall you can’t avoid the high entrance fee.
1) Tomb Tu Duc
- 7 km from Hue.
- This is really a marvellous place and not to miss. The tombs are set in beautiful garden with a pond with waterlillies.
- Admission : 5 US$ or 55.000 VND
2) Tomb Minh Mang
- 10 km from Hue
- Admission : 5 US$ or 55.000 VND
3) Tomb Khai Dinh
- 10 km from Hue.
- Admission : 5 US$ or 55.000 VND Every tomb is a small imperial city on his own with a palace, garden, lake, temple and the grave itself. The settings are all beautiful.
Because the tombs didn’t suffer a lot from bombing they are looking nicer than the Imperial city itself in Hue. After +/-17.00h the ticketcounters are closed so you can try to get in for free if the gatedoor is open ( this was the case for Minh Mang when I was there).
Excursions can be booked at travel agencies in Hue. Alternative take a taxi (10 US$) or rent a bike to discover them on your own. Be aware that the tomb of Khai Dinh and Minh Mang are lying at the opposite side of the river so you will have to manage a ferry (3 US$) to bring you across.
DMZ-zone (not recommended except Vinh Moc tunnels)
This was the demarcation line between North and South Vietnam. The heaviest and bloodiest battles took place here during the war. Eucalyptus trees are planted to rehabilitate this area. Bomb craters in the landscape are a quiet witness of what happened here. The Hien Luong bridge over the Ben Hai river formed the demarcation line between the north and the south during 1954 and 1975.
Vinh Moc Tunnels
These tunnels where constructed by the villagers of the Vinh Moc village to escape the heavy bombing during the war. There are 3 levels of depth (deepest is 30 meters), twelve entrances with 7 opening up to the beach. The total length of the tunnels is 2 km. 17 childeren were born underground. Next to the tunnels is a small museum. The 15 minutes walk to the tunnels is guided. Torches are available. The ground is slippery.
There are other places to check out here too including:
Rockpile : A 230 m high hill which was used by the US-marine. There is nothing left from the base except the rock of course.
Dakrong bridge : A bridge which was constructed in 1976 across the Dakrong river with Cuban assistance. When I was there (1999) the bridge had collapsed under his weight. Construction was going on.
Ho Chi Minh Trail : The lifeline (food, weapons, medecine) for the Viet Cong to support their troops in the South. This trail runs over 16000 km in total distance leading also to Laos and Cambodia.
Khe Sanh Combat base : An American base with airstrip which was the scene of one of the important battles during the war. Nothing to see anymore except for a very small museum with 10 pictures and some scrap metal.
Excursions can be booked online or at travel agencies in Hue.
View some of my other city guides for Vietnam:
Hanoi
Hoi An
Ho Chi Minh City