Sandwiched between Ghana and Benin, tiny Togo might seem easy to overlook. But Togo’s palm-lined beaches, bustling capital, and idyllic villages are not to be missed.
Togo is narrow along the coast, but it gets wider as you head north, and the landscape changes dramatically. Pre-Sahelian plains interrupted by hills and mountains dominate the north, while the region around Kpalimé in the southwest is verdant and lush. A syncretic version of Voodoo is practiced in parts of Togo and there are plenty of opportunities to immerse yourself in these traditions, including visiting a fetish market.
Politics in Togo have been dominated by the Eyadéma family since 1967, and there has been some upheaval in recent years. Gnassingbé Eyadéma died in 2005 and his son has been running the show since. There have been instances of political violence, especially after Eyadéma’s son took office, but things have been calm the past several years and there are currently there no travel warnings for Togo.
I have heard from many overland travelers who intended to pass through Togo on their way to Benin or Ghana, but fell in love with the Togolese people and the country’s relaxed pace of life. Admittedly, the same happened to me. Be sure to include Togo in your West Africa itinerary, or find yourself making room for it once you are there.
View my tips for backpacking and travelling independently in Togo and plan a trip for yourself.
Visa & Border Crossings
Tourist visas cost 10,000 CFA (or roughly $20 USD). They can be purchased on arrival at the border or at the airport. The visas issued upon arrival are valid for 7 days. You can extend your stay to 30 days for another 10,000 CFA. Alternately, you can request a visa from a Togo consulate before traveling.
Ghana – The main border crossing is at Aflao. This is a large border crossing and there are a number of transportation options if you are not taking a bus straight through. There are also opportunities to change currency (Ghana and Togo do not use the same currency).
Benin – The main border crossing is on the coast, close to Aného. Grand Popo is the closest town on the Benin side. Don’t be surprised if there is a queue of traffic at this border.
Burkina Faso – Senkase, located close to the border of Ghana in the northwest, is the main border crossing for Burkina Faso. This is a very quiet border crossing.
Tourist Attractions & Top Things to Do
Lomé
It’s easy to see why Lomé is the favorite city of many travelers to West Africa. Situated on the coast and cooled by a constant ocean breeze, Lomé is at once relaxed and vibrant. It’s hard to find a city in West Africa with more night life options and even if dance clubs aren’t your thing, feel free to take up temporary residence at one of the roadside bars, enjoy some Togolese street food, and soak up the unique vibe of Lomé. During the day, head to the ocean, but don’t forget to stop by the Grand Marché, Lomé’s main market, and bargain with Lomé’s famed female marketeers.
Lake Togo
Lake Togo is the largest part of an extensive lagoon in Eastern Togo. The lake itself is largely unremarkable, but the town of Togoville, located on the lakes eastern edge, is one of the most interesting in the country. This fishing village is home to a cathedral, but there are also many voodoo shrines. In addition, the former royal palace of Chief Miapa V is located here. While Lake Togo is one of the few lakes that is safe to swim in, take note of when you are traveling. In the dry and hot season (March and April mainly), parts of the lake will be dried up.
Off the Beaten Path
Kara
Located in the north, not many people make it up to Kara, but it is a relaxed town with incredible nearby scenery, most notably the Koutammakou region, a short drive from Kara, but seemingly a world away. It is here where the Batammariba people have been crafting astonishing mud tower architecture for several hundred years. Many of the earthen buildings are two stories high! Grouped in villages, this traditional architecture is truly something to experience in person.
Tamberma Valley
Also, located in northern Togo, the Tamberma Valley is one of the most unique attractions in the region. Again, it is architecture that stands out as the Tamberma people have been living in fortified villages for centuries. Every house looks like a miniature castle and human sized fetishes protect each one. The villages and houses are so built because the Tamberma were repeatedly attacked by Arab slavers. Thus, they constructed their dwellings and villages with protection in mind. If you are traveling to Togo, do not miss this!
Kpalimé
Located in the southwest, Kpalimé is part of the greenest region in Togo. Coffee and cocoa plantations abound and there are numerous opportunities for hiking the lush hills. Discover an abandoned German castle, forest waterfalls, and an unimaginable number of butterflies. Seriously, there are butterflies everywhere in Kpalimé. This is one of my favorite parts of Togo, but it must be said that it is also one of the most humid.
Weather & Best Time to Visit
The weather in Togo is typical of other coastal West African countries. There is a rainy season from May to October that is generally cooler than other times of the year. November to February is dry and considered a good time to visit because it is not the hot season. Keep in mind, however, that from January to mid-February the harmattan winds blow in from the Sahara, producing a sand cloud over much of the country. This lowers temperatures, slightly, but it also impedes visibility and casts everything in a haze. The hottest months are March and April, during which time the low lying regions of the north can become like a blast furnace.
Money & Costs
Togo, like the other Francophone countries in West Africa, uses the CFA franc, which is pegged to the euro at a rate of 500 CFA to 1 Euro. Togo is generally more affordable than some other countries in French West Africa, like Mali and Cote d’Ivoire. Expect to pay $15-20 a night for comfortable accommodation and $4-5 for most meals. It must be said, however, that Lomé can be a bit pricey, especially if you opt for the more upscale nightclubs and dining establishments.
There are ATMs in Kpalime, Lomé and Kara, but none accept anything other than visa, so keep that in mind. You can also change money at most banks and more directly, from the money changers on Rue du Commerce in Lomé.
People & Culture
The Togolese people are a healthy mix of several different ethnic groups, all of them living together peacefully. Generally, you’ll find that the people in Togo are quick to laugh and smile and they show great pride for their country. Keep in mind when talking to Togolese that political issues may be a sensitive topic.
The country has been ruled autocratically since 1967 and there have been instances of political violence used against the population. Most recently, in the aftermath of Gnassingbé Eyadéma’s (the president for nearly 40 years) death, several hundred people were killed in and around Lomé in political fighting. As it stands now, the situation is calm, but just note that it could be a sensitive issue depending on who you talk to.
Accommodation
In most of the country, accommodation is simple: foam mattresses, a mosquito net, a fan, and a private or shared bathroom. Kpalimé, Kara, and Lomé, have the most options. In Lomé, there are many more upscale hotels that will charge over $100 USD per night. These hotels often offer palatial rooms, air-conditioning, satellite TV, and a pool and restaurant on site. For simple and comfortable accommodation, however, you can expect to pay around $20 a night, less if you are willing to forego air-conditioning or use a shared bathroom.
Communication
Language
French is the official language of Togo, and it is widely spoken in urban areas and even in many villages. There are several local languages that are also widely spoken: Ewe and Gen in the south, and Kabiyé and Kotokoli in the north.
Phones
The principal cell phone networks are Togocel and Moov. Sim cards can be purchased for $2-3 and local calls are insanely cheap so travel with an unlocked cell phone or buy one when you are there. You can buy cards to top up your phone credits just about anywhere.
Internet
Cafes with internet are abound in Lomé, but they can be harder to find elsewhere. Expect slow, but typically reliable connections.
Food & Drink
Togolese cuisine is most well known for its heavy use of yams. Possibly the most popular dish is Fufu, made with boiled yams that have been pounded down to create a dense starch. Fufu is eaten with different stews and sauces, like groundnut stew, made with peanuts. Another popular dish is Akume with Ademe sauce.
Akume is a doughy starch made from cassava and maize meal, and Ademe sauce is made from a local green, onions, palm oil and salted fish. Along the coast, fish is popular and it is prepared in a number of ways, including grilled, fried, smoked and salted.
Street vendors offer the full range of Togolese cuisine and a visit to a popular stall is recommended. Just follow the crowds. It is also worth noting that the French left their culinary mark here in some respects and it is easy to find a baguette almost anywhere, whereas it is impossible in next door Ghana.
For local drink, try Eku Bavaria and Awooyo, two Togolese beers. Flag and Castel are also available, as they are throughout French West Africa. In addition, you can expect to find palm wine along the coast and millet beer in some parts of northern Togo.
Health
Malaria is widespread in Togo, and you should purchase anti-malarial prophylactics before traveling. P. Falciparum, the most lethal strain of malaria, is present inTogo. I have come down with Malaria twice before (the prophylactics are not 100% foolproof, but they probably made the symptoms less severe) and both times I treated it with Coartem, a medication that can be used for stand-by emergency malaria treatment.
Consult a travel health clinic before going to get necessary immunizations and recommendations for anti-malarials. A Yellow Fever vaccine is required to get into the country and I would also recommend a Typhoid vaccine. Coartem, and anti-malarials like malarone and doxycycline can be purchased cheaply at any local pharmacy in Togo. 30 Doxycycline tabs will run you about 2,000 CFA ($4 USD) and a box of Coartem should cost around 4,000 CFA ($8 USD).
You can take all the precautions you want, but you most likely still come down with some form of traveler’s diarrhea. I’m not telling you this to give you license to eat and drink freely – make sure food is fully cooked, peel or wash fruits and vegetables, and do not drink the tap water. I’m just telling you that despite careful eating, you will still have a few, maybe many, bad experiences sitting on a toilet or squatting over a hole in the ground.
Safety
Togo’s years of autocratic rule, while not helpful for overall freedom and democracy, have been helpful in terms of law and order. That said, there are still some instances of crime that occur, particularly in Lomé and almost exclusively at night. In the evening hours, avoid areas around the beach, the Grand Marché and do not hang out near the Ghana border area. Petty theft can also be a problem in Lomé, mostly in and around the Grand Marché so take caution with your belongings.
Road safety is more of a concern than anything else. Most of the roads in Togo are sealed and in relatively good shape, however, there are exceptions, especially in rural areas. Bush taxis are overcrowded and the vehicles are often poorly maintained, drivers are aggressive, and there are wayward livestock nearly everywhere. Try to avoid traveling at night and wherever possible, take a bus rather than a bush taxi. Alternately, you can look into renting a car or hiring a driver in Lomé. Finally, I would avoid taking moto taxis for long distances.
Voodoo
There are many people that practice voodoo in Togo and if you are traveling there, it’s best to leave preconceptions and presumptions at home. Voodoo is often portrayed by western media and entertainment as something diabolical and evil. In Togo, you will discover that there is much more to this intricate religion. While fetishes and spirit possession play a part, there are other important aspects, like respect for ancestors and elaborate trance dancing. Explore voodoo with an open mind and get to know one of the world’s most interesting religions.
Read & Watch
Le Fils du Fétiche (The Son of the Fetish)
This book by David Ananou, published in 1955, is widely considered to be the first novel written by a Togolese author. It may be difficult to track down an English translation.
Music Videos
To get a sense for what’s on the airwaves in Togo, search for any of these artists on YouTube: Black Joe, djodjo, Toofan, and King Nee.
Guidebooks
Togo is featured as part of Lonely Planet’s West Africa guidebook and it is also in the Lonely Planet Africa guidebook.